Return to Tuscan. From Tuscany to liguria. Chinckwe terre
Our trip was nearing an end. The route turned out quite extended and very winding. So they decided to heap still to see and a piece of the Ligurian coast so that after flying home from Milan. Immediately make a reservation, we did not put a goal in one day to visit all 5 towns of Chinkwe Terre. Having read the reviews of compatriots, we concluded that this is although it is possible, but tiringly, and will definitely be released by the euro gallop. And I wanted to walk, not in a hurry, enjoying the moment. It was still too early to swim (Spring was cold), conquer the love path (Via Dell’amore), we also did not become, especially since it was still places closed for reconstruction after the events of 2011-2012, when a strong flood and landslides were serious Damage to National Park. We decided to focus on 3 villages – Riomaggore, Rernatse and Manarola, where I would like to dine and meet the sunset in one of the most photographed places of Italy.
What came out of this, you can take a look in this video:
From the railway station, spices can be very fast (some 7-8 minutes) to get to the nearest town of Riomaggore. From this city we started familiarizing with Chinckwe Terre. The coast of Liguria is very rocky, the train will also dive into the tunnel, popping out on the other side of the cliff to unload the experienced experiences of tourists in the next picturesque settlement.
In the central part of Riomaggiore, you can get two ways – along the pedestrian tunnel in the rock or along the panoramic lane level above. There is an elevator at the station, but he did not work in our visit, and something tells me that it does not work often – 🙂 The small easily overcome lifestyle Via Telemaco Signorini led us to panoramic views that would be exactly skipped, take advantage of us Tunnel. From here it is seen and the station, and the beginning of the trail of love connecting Riomaggore with Manarola.
And such a romantic name of the pedestrian walkway along the sea, of course, is not accidental, and it is based on the legend about the sad story of the love of a young couple ending tragically. It is said that in the old days the neighboring villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola were hostile to each other, and this feud took place due to the source of drinking water, which was located in Riomaggiore, and who did not want to share the inhabitants of this village with neighbors. A couple of love could not be together, their families were on different sides of the barricades, and their union did not approve parental. In desperation, they met in the middle of a narrow rocky path between the villages, but did not hold on the edge of the cliff and fell into the sea. In the morning of their body nailed to the shore – girls in Manarola, and young men in Riomaggiore. Then the villagers decided that the fate itself sends them a sign of reconciliation, and in memory of the story built a pedestrian walkway, allowing them to safely walk to each other.
Tinging the views from the panorama on the famous path, we moved on, and now our eyes offer stunning views of Riomaggore (44.100043, 9.738354).
By the way, and the street with panoramic species, according to which we go, wears the name of the Florentine artist Telemaco Signorini, which once discovered the beauty and uniqueness of these places, and later the world, capturing the inhabitants and picturesque surroundings of Riomaggore.
As you know, the name of this corner of the Ligurian coast "5 lands" (but it is so translated "Cinque Terre") comes from five villages that are part of this beautiful coastal zone. The first to appear by Rubernatz and Monterosso. Riomaggore later. Although in other sources it is said that Manarola is the oldest of the "Pyndleny" settlements. The history of the village leaves the roots in the XI century. It is believed that the first settlers in these parts were the Greeks, who found here asylum in the VII century. In the Middle Ages, the villages were under the control of the Genoese Republic, which it was necessary to strengthen its approaches with new bastions to protect against pirates and Turkish invaders . Then an interesting tradition arose to build multi-level houses in which there were 2 entrances. And if the enemy knocked on the door at the first level, the inhabitants had a chance to escape, taking advantage of the second exit from the house level above.
Locals engaged in fishing and agriculture in difficult for this conditions, given the relief. Locals engaged in fishing and agriculture in difficult for this conditions, given the relief. But the results of successful fishing here you can eat now, trying to essentially local fast food – delicious seafood in deep fryer.
Riomaggiore spread out in a small valley between two hills, in the middle of which the water "Rivus Major", rivers, and now flowing under the main street of the city. Thus, the city is as if divided into two parts, the rock ledges of which are beautifully hung over the sea. And if you walk along the camping trash, the view of Riomaggiore will be a little different, but also very interesting.
And if you take a little further over the turn, you will go to the pier, from which you can go on the ship to a walkway, and look into the rest of the villages of Chinkwe Terre, or at least admire them from the water. Waiting for the boat, we went to the nearest urban beach, covered in a natural bay. I think in the summer there is a great refreshing.
The most, in my opinion, a stunning view of Riomaggiore opens from the sea, you can evaluate how picturesquely scattered multicolored houses on the slopes of hills, and what fragile they seem in the framing. Wonderful!
Since our plans were not to inspect Monterosso and Kornili, we bought a ticket to Vernatsy, judging that we would see that we would see from the sea and Riomaggiore, and Manarola (in which the ship comes on the way), and Rernatza. We float past the Corneli, and we will be able to evaluate to the future, if it will return to these edges in order to another time you already visit the terra just this hard-to-reach village, because it is located on a Statercar altitude on a rock, and a little less than 400 steps lead to it. However, a bus goes upstairs from the station to the village. I wonder how much it is crowded into the tourist season … I decided to postpone to another time.
And after a pleasant refreshing sea walk, we stepped on the Pier of Vernatsy. Many consider this town the most beautiful in Chinkwe Terre, but I’m mile, still Manarola. Although, probably, my little distorted impression from the Vernazza was under the influence of the bright midday sun. It was the first hot day for all our journey, we broke a little bit, and even lazy to climb to the most picturesque panorama for the city, although it would be worth. Such beautiful places should be contemporary, of course, in the right time – early in the morning or at sunset to evaluate all the advantages of the landscape, but we were limited in time, and sunset paints decided to watch in Manarola. In Rernazz, we were at lunchtime, when the lighting was extremely tough, so even the photos remained very little, and those so so.
What to say, Vernatza is very loved by tourists, here, it seemed to me, the most people were gathered, the simplicifications and wet thoroughly for the last 2 weeks the travelers warmed on the sun. The city’s pier looked serene. 8 years ago, the city suffered a lot after the devastating flood of 2011, people died.
The work on the restoration of Vernazz was done by colossal, but it seemed to me that even now in the appearance of the city there is sadness and memory of the days of the catastrophe.
Talking in one of the previous parts about the famous wine San Gimignano Vernaccha, I mentioned that for one of the versions the name of this wine is happening from the name of His Motherland – Vernazz, it was here that it was originally produced from local grape varieties. Here and now grapes are successfully grown, and produce excellent wine. One of them dessert sweet sciacchetrà, as described it, with notes of apricot, honey and figs. I actively absorbing antibiotics in those days, I could not taste the divine nectar – 🙂 But I gladly enjoyed ice cream made on the basis of Sciacchetrà in the Jelateria Vernazza, I recommend.
Cinkwe Terra towns are connected with each other network pedestrian paths along the sea. Some of them are quite simple for walking, but some still require a good physical form, since they are replete with descent and lifts. For the conquest of these routes, in my opinion, to take a separate day, so as not to rush and not to put sports records, but just walk, slowly enjoying the species. We did not plan such walks in this visit, but since some of the most beautiful views of the villages of "five lands" open from these paths, a little strished upstairs. Until the most important panorama point from where it opens "That is" postcard view of Vernatza, not reached. But from our height (44.136371, 9.682494) Observed beauty. However, the next time (I hope he will) I think it’s still on the species platform, and do it at sunset to admire the scenery in the upcoming twilight, when lights are lit. Probably the best and night in Rubnatse.
Lady travel by train, and we are in Manarola. Sun slowly began to descend to the horizon, and the walk was becoming more and more pleasant. We did not go right away to the main species platform of the city, and they decided to first climb to a high green hill, from afar, with the sea that attracts attention to themselves on his slopes-vineyards on his slopes. Considering landscape features, you can only guess what labor should be engaged in agriculture on these rocky rocks. But the locals adapted to resist the difficulties, strengthening the slopes with the help of stone walls, removing them without a fastening solution, "dry". So they learned to protect their crops from destroying, because in times of heavy rains there is always the risk that the results of painstaking labor will wash off the slope of water flows.
Going up, we looked at Chiesa Di San Lorenzo (patron of the city) and assessed the view that opens from her to the city center. And a little later, Manarola pleased me as a collector of bell chime from all over the corners, where he had a chance to visit his unique evening melody.
The path along the terraces led us to a good form on top of the village (44.107374.9.727567).
This hill is famous for the fact that for Christmas here is the largest in the world. Prezepe – Christmas Vertel. On terraces, glowing figures of angels, shepherds and sheep appear. About 300 figures, for the creation of which use 7 km of electrical cable and 17 thousand light bulbs. Here is a photo from the Internet, as it looks in winter:
Top view on Manarola Nephe,
But at the bottom in the well-known photoelers and photos of the professionals of the point (44.107329, 9.725499), significantly better. Therefore, we hurried to the central street of the city to catch the sunset sun in the right dislocation – 🙂
The name of the village on one of the versions sends to the mill wheel, which is located near the city center ("Magna Rota" or "Magna Roea" at the local dialect meant "Big wheel"). Another version argues that the origins of the name in phrases "Manium Arula" -"Altar Gods Mani" (the church dedicated to the dead). Anyway, but the history of the emergence of the settlement of Manarola goes deep into the ages, to the Romanesque times. Residents of the village of Voltera, which was located above in the mountains, began to descend to the sea to use its resources. For centuries, the inhabitants of Manarola were engaged in fisheries and winemaking. And your image, such a romantic and unforgettable, city acquired about the XII century. By the way, here they care about the preservation of his historical appearance, under the fear of prison there is forbidden to rebuild and repaint at home.
The sun gradually sat down, and, being in a strategic point for photographing, from time to time we were distracted and overwhelmed on the other side of an outstanding cape. Sunshine sun and cloudy also promised cute landscapes.
Over time, the city view changed, as the lighting changed. That’s just the sun generously golden the facades of old houses, and it seemed, except for this gilding there are no other colors and shades.
But the sun hid for the cloud, and soft tones and restrained paints appeared.
And a little later, when the right rays of the setting sun has not been visible, reflected from the sky and clouds, the light gave a colorful multicolor appearance in the city. But on the other hand, the soft rays of a good lamination gave a wonderful marine sunset plot.
I regret only one. Did not wait when twilight is completely thicken, and lights light in all windows and restaurants of the city. We hurried to the station, since the next morning we had to go very early to leave the spice, so that finally in front of the plane to visit the place of many, the place – Portofino.
And therefore, apparently, I once will have to come back to watch and hire my movie – 🙂 I am pretty constant in my preferences, and I find pleasure to return to the loved place, although there are so many interesting things in the world, and so much Herked Trop! Alas, all do not reach, and your favorite Italy and the Netherlands continue to be treated to themselves, and do not produce from captivity – 🙂