Roads Derson Uzala. National Park "Bikin"
It was she – love at first sight. Old, dressed in a fur coat made of natural moss, decorated with lace cobwebs, wood hanging over water. It met us, carefully peeping out of the gentle September fog. Who sailed? Who disturbed the autumn silence? I really wanted to touch him, feel my delicate moisture content of moss and the rough roughness of the bark, but it was on the other side of the river, so we spoke at a distance.
According to the laws of the fabulous genre on this tree, Mermaid must live. Who knows, maybe she really sits on the old trunk, shaking his tail over the water, just we are not given to see her?
River – she is always different. That is calm, like a stretched silk canvas, then somewhere in a hurry and therefore noisy and stormy, with deep pools and rods, on which even a sparrow by knee. Swim well on the river when the head of the sky is blue, the clouds in the water are reflected, and the breeze is just a little bit of the tops of the trees on the shore. But the most beautiful river becomes in the fog. It is important to dress correctly so that the dampness does not make their way to the seed and distracting from contemplation.
Here with such a foggy river and our acquaintance began with bikin. I think that many, even those who have never been here, is a familiar name. It is these places and this river described Vladimir Arsenyev in his book about the dertie. There is some amazing magic when you suddenly get into those places about which many years ago, in childhood, read in a book.
End point of our little journey – a generic hunting section of Konstantin Sunka. Here hunted, caught fish and gathered santa and grandparents Konstantin, and now he himself. It is located at the merger of the rivers of the Omomoxy and Bikin, on the territory Bikin National Park is the only manner of the most protected natural territory in Russia, where the traditional economic activity of indigenous minorities has been preserved.
Water in Bikin rose from the past rains, and therefore on the road to the crosse we decide to spend the night on Cordon "Ulma". It is also a generic site, but tourists here are glad: there is a large summer kitchen, a guest two-storey house, which will be located ten people. The owner on the cordon we didn’t find it, but the bones had the keys to the house, so I’m sitting on the night with pretty comfort.
"Ulma" Cordon is named by the name of the nearby hill, on which the observation deck is equipped with a view of the river and the surrounding hill. Being here and do not go up – a crime, especially since there is a convenient trail. However, Taiga cooked a surprise, lining so much water here that even in high boots we did not risk storming these pools.
"Normal heroes always go around," we decided and climbed onto the feather "in the forehead" through Taiga. Shortly before us the same way wanted to pass another film crew, but dramatically changed the plans, seeing on the shore of the bear. We have not seen a bear, and therefore first very cheerful, then slower and at the end almost crawled still got to the top of the ulma, while he had time to start time.
Bikin – Liver River. You look at it – calm, perfect for unhurried alloy. And you look closely – a solid trap. This is where squigs stick out of the water, the residues of the trunks, and the trees are huge, fell with the root of the trees. Under such slaves, very dangerous waterways are formed, and it is easily able to please in trouble.
And Bikin is bottled on dozens of ducts and small robusts. And here will not save any most accurate map, because the channel is constantly changing. Therefore, there are no alloys for waterproof tourists on bikin, and it is possible to enter the water in the National Park only accompanied by conductors, the indigenous people of these places – Udaegei and Nanaysev, for which the river – the native home.
I watched Konstantin with some sacred inner delight, as Konstantin easily caresses between the koryagami, deftly driving the traditional Udagei boat – Ulmagoy, as he without thinking turns into the right ducts, and if he suddenly understands that the duct is blocked by a fallen tree, it quickly finds another way.
Ulmaga – a very strange boat. It is unnecessarily long, but it is convenient for the transport of goods – on the move sometimes it seems that the boat bends into the "waist" and wags "Poya". Passengers travel in Ulmaga lying, for sitting on narrow banks (shops) during the move is not particularly convenient. Tourist foam is thrown onto the bottom or any other soft rug, under the back of the backpacks, pulled out legs – and full buzz. True, there is one small minus: if the wind, then splashes fly from water, but it is treated with an ordinary raincoat.
Now all boats on the river go on motors, and before, instead of the cheer, the pole, which were repelled from the bottom. For the flow with the sixth, it is possible to reach, but against the current – difficult!
On the Kostin Cordon, we are encountered a black-black cat. By the way, it is interesting, but the cats here are on all cordons. Live at the foot of the stern, no "whisks": what caught, I ate. Judging by the gloring wool, they do not suffer from hunger.
By the way, about caught. Unlike reserves, In national parks allowed to catch fish. True, there are rules of fishing, and with them you need to get acquainted in advance in order not to hover in trouble. And the fish is noble here: Lenok, Harius, even the Tymen happens.
And around Taiga. And mosquitoes. You can escape from flying vampires only in overalls, while also by sprinkling anti-kamarin.
If Paris stands Mass, then Taiga is worth trying mosquitoes, for no urban forest park and even the forest near civilization will not give the energy of the energy industry, does not trudge the smells, they will not charm the sounds that generously divides the virgin nature.
Beginning of September. Confidently comes in its right to autumn. It seems to be a sun shine and even hesitates, but still in the air some autumn screaming.
Traveling around the river is also observing its inhabitants.
Here the cormorant sat down to relax.
And this is a real fortune – Beloham Eagle.
Gray herons, something resembling pterodactles.
Several taiga days flew like one moment. Oh or sorry, but you need to go back.
Checkpoint "Takhoj". Here you will be met at the entrance and spend on the road from the National Park. Inspector on Takhalo work smiling, but serious. Unaccompanied and decorated skip do not slip.
Our journey began and ended in the village of Red Yar. It is here that the visit center and the Directorate of the National Park "Bikin".
Now the park is located in the school building, but soon the Park will have a new visit center and an exhibition hall.
For now, for tourists who come to the park, and residents of the village are open a small exhibition of works by Ivan Ivanovich Dunkaya, Udegei artist, painter and graphics.
Here you can see souvenirs made by the hands of Krasnoyar masters working in a "craft house". This is a bone and wood carving, homemade footwear made of natural fur with traditional embroidery, decorations from treated bone of large fish, beads, leather, fur.
Alexey Kudryavtsev, director of the Bikin National Park:
Souvenir products – an important component of our hospitality. We are very glad when tourists take a memorable little things with them. First, they resemble our unique territory, our traditions, and secondly, it is an opportunity for additional earnings for local residents. Today in the craft house there is a manufacturer of light home shoes, embroidered belts, national hats and T. D. Bone products are also in demand. In the future, the list of products made by the masters from the number of indigenous peoples, we are planning to expand.
There are a visit-center and national Udagei outfits.
Together with Ano "Center "Amur tiger"»Park built hospital for villagers with modern equipment and kindergarten. Employees of the park are not forgotten. For invited specialists built modern cottages with all amenities.
And a house for six apartments.
Every year in August in the village there is a holiday "Day of Bikin", during which you can get acquainted with the traditions, life and national cuisine Udahey.
If you remember, at the beginning of the story, I wrote that one of the expeditions Vladimir Arsenyev was held from the bike bike to the Bikin River. Perhaps, in the foreseeable future, the route "Arsenyev" route will appear in the park, and while in the village a year ago, a monument was delivered to Dersu.
The monument to the DRCA was created by the young sculptor Alexei Stepanenko in Co-authorship with ethnographer scientists who were attracted to cooperation Project initiators – the center "Amur Tiger". In the process of working on the monument, attention was paid to every detail: hunting bag, gluable bag, smoking tube, shoes. For example, the shoes of the dertie had to redo themselves several times, for "did not wear such chuni".
National Bikin is still very young, on November 3, 2020 he will be five years old, and today it is one of the largest specially protected natural territories in Russia. Creating a national park saved a unique corner of nature from the barbaric cutting of the forest, and the Bikin river itself and its tributaries – from the pollution of gold mining waste.
Bikin – One of the largest priterodes of Ussuri. In the upper reaches of the river on the unique Plateau, the most southern in Asia plots of permafrost, associated with the swamp system. They, along with the protected virgin forests, are able to extract moisture, even from the fogs, eating bikin and its tributaries.
In the local taiga you can meet the Amur Tiger. Here they are numbered about 40 individuals, which is 10% of the entire world population of these animals. Live here also brown and Himalayan bears, lynx, wolverines, wolves, Filin, Orlans, black cranes.
The Bikin National Park is the first specially protected natural territory in Russia, one of the tasks of which is to protect the habitat and traditional lifestyle of indigenous peoples.
Attending the National Park best from May to October, but also for winter holiday lovers, the park will offer interesting routes.
Now for tourists has developed four routes with which you can read more detail on the Park website:
- "Successful Klev" (five days). This is the longest route: Tourists will float on boats 400 km from the village of Red Yar to the park border. On the third day of travel is scheduled for fishing. The most fortunate fishermen will be able to catch a timman, the rest will delight harius, Lenok, pike.
- "Fish Play" (three days). This route begins on Cordon "Solon", from where tourists helicopter throw into the village of Hunting. The next day, the boat group leaves the river to the recreation center "Lauthe" on the merger of the River Lightwater with Bikin. Return distance to Cordon "Solonkin" is overcome on quad bikes.
- "To the upper reaches of the Bikin River" (two days). This route starts from the village of Hunting, from where, tourists come from the boats to the mouth of the carpenter river. There is an overnight stay, fishing. On the second day, return back.
- Takhalo (one day). This route starts from the checkpoint "Tahalo", its length in one direction is about 9 km. Day Route. Overnight in the park is not provided.
You can drive to the village of Red Yar by car from Vladivostok or Khabarovsk or by bus from Rudeugorsk.