I madly love to ride in Russia, so it is very not surprising that the dream of Kamchatka wondered my consciousness since the first school campaign to the excretake tundras. As I remember: sit around the fire, and the teachers tell amazing stories about the distant corners of our immense country. That night I could not fall asleep for a long time. Studdered in the hanging ceiling of the agent, I represented the fellings of volcanoes, the icy water of the Pacific Ocean, the noise of the Far Eastern surf, the huge brown bears, eating salmon off the coast of the Kuril Lake. Then, in your fifteen, I gave myself a word someday be sure to see all this magnificence with my own eyes. And after some five years later, I buy a ticket to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky ..
The decision to go to Kamchatka was made in peculiar circumstances, and I still do not understand how everything happened so quickly. Probably, this is just one of those solutions that you do not accept you, but some power over. I just returned from Berlin, where he lived for 2 years, and thought that after a rather difficult period of life, I need to fly to Baikal to get together with my thoughts and breathe deeply. And once in the evening my close girlfriend calls me and says to me: "Remember, we still dreamed of school about Kamchatka? And let’s take and go, no, but just take and go ?!"Soter’s breath. I drank again and immediately began to search for tickets. We were taken in mid-February, so it is best to buy, unfortunately, failed. In general, if you are planning a summer trip to the Far East and want to save, the tickets are better to catch in December, when Aeroflot varies the prices of "Round-back" from 18 to 22 thousand rubles. Usually they do not hold more than a month, since this direction is becoming more and more popular. Choosing tickets on August 8 and 30, and then convulsively clicking the "Pay" button, I was still a minute 10, I was sitting on a chair and looked at the february snow falling outside. The face illuminated the bigst smile, which only exists, and one only thought spinned in my head – the right dreams should come true.
Deciding with the dates of the trip, we have begun to compile a program that promised to be very saturated. Evilly reading in all sorts of magazines and articles about Kamchatka Territory, I already realized that for a month I just want to see, just unreal. Therefore, fastening the heart, we left the thoughts about the north of the peninsula to the next time and focused on the main and well-known points around the world, which should have become our guides in the amazing world of Kamchatka. Digging on the Internet, we came across the All About Kamchatka website, and ironically on the summer program called "Ocean and Mountains" from August 9 to 19, it remained just two free places! Taking them, we contacted Tanya and Taras Scharygoy – a married couple who created a beautiful project "Trece Kamchatka" and the brand "Kamcchatka Clothing", which is first and foremost, social promise and in the drawings personifying the life of the peninsula. They suggested that it is definitely impossible to miss, the tour was recommended to Tobachk and a helicopter tour of the Kuril Lake. From 9 years I ride on a snowboard and skate, so one of my long-standing and cherished dream was surfing. And as you already, probably, understood, I also got up on Kamchatka on the board. Taras and Tanya told about the "SnowaVe Surf School" on the Khalaktyra beach, which actually became our last refuge in the Far Eastern dream.
Arriving in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on August 9, having acquainted with the guys from Kamchatka Freeride Community and addressed in Hostel24 Hostel, which is perhaps the only acceptable option that combines the real price, all the necessary amenities and a pleasant international company, we still living still Moscow time, plunged into a deep dream, anticipating a trip to the current Mutnovsky volcano, which was waiting for us in the morning of the next day.
The first day on Kamchatka was somehow crazy. On the road to Mutnovka, our vaktovka lowered the tire, and we lost a couple of hours to replace the spoiled wheel. Arriving to the base camp at 6 o’clock in the evening, learned that our rise was under a big question: the weather began to deteriorate, and go back on the dark – quite dangerous for these seats. Despite all the fears, our conductor has decided to rise. Initial fact, but, inhaling the smell of hydrogen sulfide and pressing hair from rainwater, you feel in the seventh heaven from happiness. I got wet, I really try, but an extraordinary combination of bad, slightly gloomy weather, soaring a white ferry geyser, and red-brown lava formations made a huge impression, and I happily pockey down to the vaktovka. By the time, when everything was safely descended and were ready to advance, it was already dark and the torrential rain went. Our return to the city was similar to the scene from the film "War of the Worlds" Stephen Spielberg: piercing darkness, huge stones, which sometimes did not see the thunderstorm, rain rivers that prevent Kamaz movement. Arriving in the morning in the hostel, we laughed for a long time and told our story only to woke up by the Chinese who did not cease to fuck and ad. There was no sense to go to bed, so we reached backpacks and were looking forward to acquaintance with our next Far Eastern target – a mountain range of a VCachzitz, located west of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky.
After the storm comes calm, so we spent a wicked sunny day on the VCachku. They wandered through the emerald carpets of cedar and olhovy stabes, orchids, Siberian juniper. And what are the lawns with blueberries! Fall on the ground and drown in pigeon euphoria. I thought that the largest and tasty berry on the Kola Peninsula, but believe me, there is nothing more beautiful Kamchatka blueberries. Rising a little higher, we found themselves at the glacial mountain circus. The path to it goes along a beautiful stream with cascades of waterfalls. There are a lot of bears on the VCachza, however, we, unfortunately (or fortunately), not a single meeting so and failed.
On Avachinsky volcano we rose the next day. Six hours of sweaty pleasure and changing every ten minutes of landscape, and here we started with 750, turned out to be at an altitude of 2685 meters. Did I feel physical satisfaction after a six-hour lift? Hardly. I knew that the climb would not be difficult to me, since I often go to hiking. I felt happiness ? For sure. Comprehensive happiness of life that you want to breathe full of breasts. It is there, standing on Avic and feeling the mountain Kamchatsky insanely cold wind, I first felt a special connection with this place.
We spent the next five days in a small campaign, traveling on a sailing catamaran on nearby bates and stopping in picturesque places to spend the night and reassure. It was my first meeting with the quiet ocean, and honestly confess, in my entire life I never cried so much from happiness. Meeting with Kosyats, who flooded literally two meters from us, the Milestone Sivochi, proudly nominated near my kayak and told, whether everything is fine, finally, His Majesty Pacific Ocean. You hear it. You see him. You feel it with every cage of your body, and most importantly, you understand what an insignificant part of something truly mighty is . At our stops in the bay of quiet and at the Cape Green, I sat on a clock on a sheer stone and looked at the sun out underwater. I thought about what is really freedom, about round-the-world journeys Jacques-Iva Costo, about the house … a lot of thoughts burned down in the neural fools of my consciousness, and most importantly, I realized that I fell in love with this edge forever. And this love was akin to love for my family, my native Caucasus, my friends.
After arriving with kayakov, we had a couple of days to sleep and go around the city, and then – five days on Tolbachinsky volcano. We were very lucky with the company: the most experienced Hope and five fun, incredibly soulful Kamchatka grandmothers who mixed us all the trip, trembled home lemoncella and told how to get married correctly and boil the mowing tincture. And how deftly they rise on stones! I was in a pleasant shock and madly glad that I met a different generation of Kamchadalov. What to say about Tolbachik … Mars, this is really Mars on the planet Earth! On the first night, the hope led us to crevices, so that we saw the fiery lava with our own eyes and fucked bananas on the stones adjacent to it. Convey this feeling when you see a scarlet glow from the ground and feel the heat of hot rocks, and your way illuminates the huge full moon, lazily collapsed in the starry sky, of course, it is impossible. In the following days, we almost reached the valley of the sculptures, rose to a flat Tolbachik, a cone of the second and Gorshkov, wandered around the Taiga site, which was the victim of the eruption of 1975 and for this reason called the dead forest. I did my best photos, perhaps, it is on Tolbachik. Perfect light, contrasting colors, natural variety. Fans of high-quality photos will definitely understand me.