Tromso or Northern Paris
– Computer network specialist;
– Candidate of Biological Sciences.
Punched by the study of high-mountain ecosystems, travel photography and human behavior in extreme environmental conditions.
But, the local harsh gods clearly had their grandiose plans in which my wishes were hardly taken into account, and as a result, Tromsø met a sticky mist and small rain, which strangely reminded me of the very legend of throwing coins in water in order to return.
Once a single ancient ruler for a long time looking for a place for his new capital. He visited dozens of beautiful places, but none of them liked him. What to do, monarchs are capricious.
Already returning from the wanderings, the ruler stopped at the shore of the sea and firmly thought: "It seems that there is money; And people that can build the capital, but not found decent places ".
The Spirit of Places clearly threw these words, and he sent a big wave for the monarch. The ruler tried to jump off, but in a hurry dropped the wallet with gold coins. The wave immediately descended, capturing prey with him, and the autocrat, fucking, went on.
Years walked, and it happened that the ruler’s lands were immunified. Yes so that one day he remembered the lost wallet and decided to go look for his gold.
When he approached the seabed, the wave, spike, carried a shabby wallet to his feet. There is a monarch and realized that he will not find a better place for his capital and laid the city here.
Who knows, it can precisely on this principle of Vikings and founded the settlement in local fjords that now called Tromso. It is a pity that modern science cannot answer the question when it was. It is only known that people here lived from the Iron Age, and the most ancient church was erected in the village in 1250. Since 1794, Tromsø was recognized as a developing shopping city. In the XIX century, the city lived exclusively fishing and trade (including with our Arkhangelsk), after 1850, the Department of Bishop, Pedagogical College, Shipyard, Tromso Museum and Mack Brewer. From here they went to Polar Studies Nansen and Amundsen.
Fjord Tromsoye. July.
During World War II, the city became a few weeks by the residence of the Norwegian government. Tromsø happily escaped bombing, so in the city center there is a wooden building of more than a hundred years ago – a good hook for a photographer. Because to capture the city in any bad weather.
And start a tour of the city right from the Polar Cathedral (ISHAVS Kedralen), which locals are called the Cathedral of the Northern Ocean or Church in Tromsdalen. Since 1965, this building is a kind of Tromso’s business card, with his dome symbolizing the game of the Northern Lights over the city. The eastern wall of the cathedral is decorated with a huge triangular stained glass window, performed in 1972 by architect Viktor Sparre. Stained glass created from glass pieces, which are folded in 86 panels showing the second coming of Christ.
Despite the religious orientation, the cathedral itself is not particularly similar to the cult facility, and the locals are recognized that museum exhibitions and concerts prefer church services here. I must say that acoustics in the building – the stunning and sound of the organ will not leave anyone indifferent. I imagine how fascinatingly to listen to the concerts, for example, classical music.
Organ of the cathedral.
The city center is small and easy to go around. The historic part includes the main street Storgata, as well as Strandgata Streets, Skippergata and Skansegata, lying closer to the sea. The main market area of Stortorget overlooks the harbor and the Polar Cathedral through the Strait. On the other side of Storgata Street House climb cool up on the hill. This exaltation separates the eastern part of the city from Western and from the airport. At the top of the ridge there is a forest staring area through which locals can walk to work in any part of the city. Space under the mountain is insisted by tunnels hiding transport streams under the ground. Underground there are even a fork and rings with traffic lights!
The main part of the city is located on a small island of Tromsi, with separate areas on the mainland and on the island of Quala. On the continental side of the fjord is located Mount Fleia. You can climb it either on foot or on the funicular Fihelhassen, which goes every half an hour and hour. The top of the cable car is located at an altitude of 421 meters above sea level – and this is already enough to celebrate the Arctic Ice Breathing. The wind, literally, dumps from the feet, and keep the camera without gloves – it is strongly impossible. But it is from here that a stunning view of the city and the surrounding waters. Surprisingly, but despite the gray gamut, the staff turn out very colorful.
Gulf Stream flow waters provide a sufficiently soft winter, and the surrounding mountains protect the city from cold winds well, which leads to the abundance of precipitation in winter. And although the snow and rains often serve as an obstacle to inspection of local beauties and radiances – Tromso himself is interesting and attractive in any weather.
View from Mountain.
Justice I must say that it is possible to shoot the main winter attraction of the Allopharya. Local winds and severe clouds change commemorated and closer to midnight tearing gaps, giving a chance to squeeze the beauty. You only need to stock up warm clothes, a solid tripod and fairness. Well, go away from the city to night lighting not overshadowed a natural miracle. By the way, I can not share an interesting observation. Northern Lights need to be removed by a wide-angle lens, which means that it can be filled with a conventional soap box, such as the same Pentax GR or, in general, advanced smartphone type Nokia Lumia 1020. So: Soapsy often catches the radiance better than the mirror!
Attempts to remove the Northern Lights in bad weather.
Separate action is, of course, fishing, or rather – Cod catching. And although in bad weather in the open sea, do not go out, the fish can be caught, literally, without choosing from the harbor. Despite the fact that the captain of our vessel is looking for fish on echo sounder, the old good method – observation of the sea bird – it works no worse. Cod prefers to keep in lowering bottom – banks. It is enough just to hang over one of these cans, lower the glitter – pilker – almost the very bottom and the fish will not wait long. The main thing is not to forget to smoothly omit and raise spinning.
However, the first bite was still surprised: it was not a cod at all on the hook, but a pike. And although this fish also belongs to the cream family, the Norwegians, traditionally, consider it much more valuable. Isn’t it because the pike has a particularly high content of iodine, which is so lacking on the north?
Three hours of fishing – more than enough to catch a good lunch for 15-20 persons. The main thing is to certainly try freshly prepared cods on the ship. According to Norwegian standards, the cod of the raging more than forty minutes is considered not quite fresh! So calling – "tired". I now even scary to think what then lies in the freezers of our stores under the guise of cod.
The cooking method is also original, although extremely simple. A saucepan with sea water (straight from the fjord) with the addition of all sorts of spices is adjusted to a boil, then removed from the fire and only then they put pieces of raw, not yet "tired" Cod. Water on fire no longer put! Just waiting for 20 minutes – and fish is ready. Get out and eat. Water, of course, merge. Such a fish is amazingly delicious in itself, but if you pour it, for example, fried from the onion rings – it is determined strongly impossible. Only for this is worth getting to Tromso.
So the freshly prepared cod looks.
Understandable thing that one fishing entertainment in Tromso is not limited. What north without driving on dog sledding? Of course, I also do not mind ride on them, but the Norwegian gods once again showed their stubborn character and blurred snow with spring rain. Dogs, of course, I would be happy to run, but the fragile is deeply cutting the paws and can sneeze the runners. Therefore, it remains only to spend blue-eyed creatures in their hostel: northern dogs are very sociable, not an inaccier and glad to anyone. Of course, if you go with the owner. By the way, an interesting point: a leader in a dog flier stands. human. This allows you to achieve greater recoil and handling. Although, on the other hand, it means that such a person does not have any opportunity to relax and, for example, to go to the warm sea. After all, dogs without a leader can not be left for a long time, but on the harness before the same Mediterranean – you can not reach.
Doggy "apiary" Spitsbergen after me, of course, no surprise, although the form of slender rows of hives-konurok among circumpolar crooked somewhat amazing. The brain is subconsciously trying to solve the problem, due to which the bees can survive this "the fridge". In contrast to the relatives on the Arctic archipelago of local Husky live in double booths, located not too high above the ground. And when a strong cold vapor is drawn in the same half. Warmer, but.
If you’re not a fan of a dog’s bark, or if you is no longer a novelty, I advise you to look at the world’s northernmost brewery. And not for the bitter drunkenness, and initiation to history for the sake of. In the history of enterprise development Mack reflects the entire evolution of the city and watch a video about the difficult formation brewery looks at one go.
No, of course in spite of the status of a museum of this institution, intoxicating drink is still brewed within the walls. the music of AC / DC, Pink Floyd, Foo Fighters and other rock classics, although the main factory have long moved beyond the limits of Tromsø. And the music is still playing on vinyl and it somehow seems to be particularly relevant and correct.
Among other Norwegian city of Tromso is famous as a place with lively nightlife, bars and restaurants democratic, with a lot of entertainment and cultural events throughout the year. However, do not expect from Tromso real Paris in miniature: it’s just a small town, where there is an opportunity to touch the full charm of the polar region. So if you ever thought about a trip to the North – you need to look in Tromsø. Especially because from here to the Arctic Svalbard just a half-hour flight.