Turkey: Non-Stop clock
Turkey was alternately as part of the Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman Empires, and therefore rich in monuments of the mentioned cultures. So we decided to see them, traveling in ancient places on a rented car ("Renault-19" 50 dollars a day) and choosing your own route.
Turkish roads can not be called smooth. And nevertheless, the movement here is lively. For the coolness there are layouts of police cars, occasionally come across and real. We are trying to find the capital of Hittites, but there is nothing like.
Inhibit on a narrow steep street at the Citadel. Local shopkeeper is indignant, and maybe it just wants to sell something. Around colorful shops with hookahs, ceramics, beads. And nearby, in the covered market of the XV century, the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. Here are the subjects since the time of the matriarchy. There is an ancient Greek image of Amazons. On Brockhauz and Efron, Amazon means Gretless. So called the people who lived in the current Anatolia and consisting exclusively of women. Amazons sent boys to neighboring tribes, and girls left and burned them the right chest, so as not to interfere with the stretch.
In Ankara nothing more to do. Trying to leave, but the street is blocked. Ahead cork, behind a horse and a strong slope almost 30%. Turks are noisy, mashed with their hands, try to do something. The horse is worth. Well, it can not give a reverse of the mountain.
After 10 minutes broke out to freedom. The road goes to the south.
Turn to the southeast. Local landscape pleases with all the shades of the Eastern Colorite. Long-axis stork climbs the nest on the top of the lamppost. Navidny donkey pulls the arba in peach grove. Houses outside the window acquire a typical Middle Eastern view. Small, clay, with windows into the yard. We drove past the reservoir Hirfanla. I really want to swim, but the road goes in the mountains and to the water far.
Our goal-Erdzhyy and majestic surroundings, formed there after volcanic eruptions in the 1st century. In my opinion, we already approach.
– The ash layers are distinguished by density and color. Ash drove and became a tuff. And erosion gave up a soft tuff rock form of bizarre cones, pyramids and depressions. – You look at these pillars.
– Very similar in shape and color on spring beast. Come to the caves. Shlipsky stairs. Unlike places where you are not allowed at the slightest danger, here you can climb where you want. Tourists use it and scraper without any railing.
The sun comes, and we are looking for the night. Road loops among red sticking blocks lit by sunset. Having stopped on the mountain path upstairs, put the tent. In the reservoir splashes fish. Over the head of black South night, the Milky Way and his brightest part in Sagittar.
After Pinarbasi, the road goes to the mountains and serpentine begins. Overcoming pass and descending into Euphrates, we feel unprecedented humidity and heat. Outside the window cloudy and +38. The car becomes impossible. We make a halt in Malaty, not far from Euphrat – the Great River from Childhood.
The city is quite tourist. Even the Internet cafe is. But most importantly – we saw here a real Turkish coffee. I am pleased to order and wait. She passes half an hour.
– How on cooking two cups of coffee can kill so much time?
Finally bring a small dish. And on it – something big with salad.
– Cat, – Pretty Pronounces Waiter.
Cutlet in the bow, anointed and sprinkled with something. We make an elongated face. I show your finger to the corresponding menu item. The man is surprised, leaves, and in a couple of minutes, the long-awaited coffee is already.
By the way, do not expect something special from one cup of coffee. He is not strong, just thick. Turkish coffee ("kahve") – about the history and the meaning of the volume of Tom – can be found here only in tourist centers. But everywhere there is tea. In Turkey, tea is not brewed, but cook and served in transparent cups to show his unusual color. Strange, Turk tea is the main source of caffeine, and thick Turkish coffee having a rich taste and aroma – no.
In every Turkish village, at least there is a coffee shop, a stall courtyard and a pond, laid out by stone plates with sayings from the Quran. Set of food standard. But if on the Black Sea of Kebab you will prepare on corn oil, then on the Aegean and Mediterranean – on olive. In the east of the Mediterranean, it will be prepared by very sharp spices. And then to the east, it will be offered to him very sweet dessert. In the West, you are waiting for an abundance of fruits and vegetables. In the Mountains of Eastern Anatolia – Wonderful Yoghurt, Cheese and Honey on Local Grass. On the coast of the Black Sea will prepare 40 dishes from Hams, and the forest walnut, which is abundant here, will be offered at all for free. Finally, in a lost village in the center of the country, local culinary will bring you a carp baked in plaster. Right from the furnace, the fish will be fed to the table in its plaster "Sarcophage".
After the elipper on the diyarbakyr.
Catching a group of cyclists. It turns out, ours. Six people, all from Peter and Belarus. On trunk "Cats" And safety equipment. Raised to Ararat – height 5137 meters.
According to legend, it should be the remnants of the ark that are still looking for.
It cooled down. Drove into Bitlis, who immediately liked. Old Armenian town in a narrow gorge. Gorge Such a narrow that at home is hanging over the river. Many Armenian churches converted to mosques. Going to Lake Van.
Already in the pitch darkness, we suddenly lucky. Enter the beach at the dried apple tree. Coast of Lake Polok. Puma is lying everywhere. She pleasantly tickles his heels, and if you throw it into the water – it floats. Great. Lake where stones float. Roat bonfire. Heaven perfect black. Radio catches pleasant music.
Saturday, July 10.
In the morning we rose early.
We swim again, I pour oil into the car. Peasants extremely persistent. They ask to photograph, and then send pictures. Although, in local concepts, did not follow. Photography, retaining the appearance now, subsequently can interfere with the soul.
We continue to detain the lake. On the road there is a pointer to Iran. It can be reached to the city of Van. Van is impressive. Below the citadel can touch the ruins that were formed during the First World War from 1915 to 1917.
And long before, in 900-600 g.G. to N. NS., In the place of the current Vana, there was a carp, the capital of the state mentioned in the Bible of the state by Urart, the inhabitants of which for two centuries struggled with Assyria.
We climb the nonsense. The road is very cool. It is difficult to go, it seems that the car is about to drag back. In winter, up to three meters of snow falls, and it is impossible to drive here at all. Finally the road ends. From here to the top of 500 meters.
. Above us deep blue, hurricane wind and cold. For a long forgotten desire to wear something – temperature +15. Below in a foggy haze is visible a huge territory. Still remains a mystery how these stones raised in such a height. And to see how it was before, it is worth entering a small museum.
Sunday, July 11.
. The car monotonously buzzes, the road under the wheels is smooth. Landscape outside the window does not change. Either the scorched steppe, or the desert. We are going – as if you stand. Heat +45. Air outside the window – like a hair dryer.
Antiokhin, the former capital of Syria and the Roman province now Antakya. New big city. Many shops. Cola and tights with bare girls at every step and less women in black hoods, with eye slit. From Roman times there was almost nothing. The city is not at sea, but a completely different climate is felt. Winter does not happen here. In the summer wet and not so hot. A lot of water, fountains at every step. Dates ripe on palm trees. Figing trees grow on the side.
Go in a cafe, dinner. The owner of the cafe recognizes us for the Russians and turns the conversation. About Russians who married Turk.
– How is their fate?
Some successfully adapt to local conditions and feel confident. These are mainly Muslims from Russia and from the Caucasus familiar with Turkish culture and language. They easily take local rules of behavior and traditions, agree with the role of a woman in everyday life and do not claim much. They are usually in the villages often as a second or third wife. Overall, not bad.
Slavs come here and Slavs from the southern cities of Russia, fleeing from lack of money, unemployment and family problems. – They do they know what. Russians involuntarily assimilate local customs and learn language. Sooner or later think about. to get better and get the right to work. And therefore married local and get a residence permit
– And not subject to no discrimination?
– On the contrary, – the owner of the cafe laughs.
Earn money, they seek them to invest them, and marriage allows you to do it on legal grounds. This is welcomed by the authorities. New restaurants, outlets, small hotels open. Moreover, officials say that Russians affect local morals well. By their example, the Turkanka began to walk with husbands in the parks, cinemas and concerts, which did not do before. In the summer, looking at the Russians, they often began to rest on the sea
-Levelcurler ("thanks" in Turkish).
We are going to Samandag. Resort Appendix. Sea. Magnificent beach. Water. How paired milk. There are no foreigners. But there is a Turkhanka. They really are relaxed – the most dashing in shorts. But bathe still in clothes.
Monday, July 12.
We passed Adana. The farthest to the west, the more antique ruins. One of the first in Tars. The city is three thousand years old, and he is. that the apostle Paul was born here and in him loved each other Anthony and Cleopatra. The monument to their love – the famous gate – stands still on Mersin Avenue.
After Tars, the road broke out to the sea. Shore now more and more rocky.
Going on. On the way, the ruins come across continuously. Under each bush, you can find traces of any buildings. The ruins of the city of Karicos. Normal set: Theater, Temple, Library, Necropolis – Typical project of building of the first century of our era. On the coast is hot, and we turn over the mountains to spend the night. As soon as they rose upstairs, a pleasant coolness came. We are going through the forest. Someone is very loud. It even seems to be in the car, something broke. Braking, mohawing the engine and only then understand that it is grasshoppers.
Before the prival, we look at the ruins of Dioissearies, the city of Vespasiana. The village immediately spread. Peasants use ruins, very pragmatic – fences are made from columns. Gendarmerie also does not lag behind – two columns are taken for the main gate, and naked women from the temples are inside, in fire shields. Two rows of columns in Corinthian style remained from the temple of Zeus and the inscription at the entrance: " In the temple of Zeus tent not to put".
Columns are illuminated with a rustling sunset. Over head lead clouds. Zipper sparkle, but there is no rain. Majestically, everything looks. Around Angora goats. Stick and asking to scratch them like cats. We drank Ayran and went to look for parking. On the road, a camel runs out and approximately a kilometer runs ahead, like hare, in the rays of headlights.
Attached to the mountain and divorced the fire. Around warm and dry. Sing cicadas. Long sit by the fire and talk about life. Return to Topkai Palace.
Tuesday, July 13.
. Approach Antalya, the center of Russian tourism. Near the road aspandos, with an antique theater, which is very well preserved. Built in the brand of Aureli in 161-180 g.G. N.NS. Designed for 15,000 people. Already in those days, the curtain was used here and sold tickets – clay pellets with theatrical mask. Concerts are held in the theater today.
Dining go to Antalya. Again narrow streets and parking problems. Local taxi driver Mights helps us with gestures. As a result, the bumper enters into the wall, and the taxi driver launches his hands, sits in the car and leaves. Bumper remained intact. The old fortress wall is almost not destroyed, and Minaret Ivley will not have one hundred years old.
. It’s time to return to Belek. Our Topkapi Palace Hotel is 25 km from Antalya on the seafront among comfortable hotels and tourist complexes. He is, it is impossible to relate to our desire to rest without going from its territory. On the area of 15 ha are five buildings, in the architecture of which elements of the Sultan Palace in Istanbul are used. And around pine forests, beautiful sandy beaches and crystal clear azure sea. The hotel is located in the protected area and in the water you can find sea turtles.
We are a little tired after the rally in historical places. Therefore, hardly go somewhere else. However, resting here, you can fly to Israel.
I close my eyes and learn in the chair. Comes the music and smells of kebab.
Location. Turkey is located on two continents – in Europe and Asia. borders with Bulgaria, CIS, Syria, Iran and Iraq.
Cities. Ankara – Capital, Istanbul, Izmir, Adana. Antalya, Erzurum, Diyarbakyr.
Religion. 99 percent of the population – Muslim.
Currency. 1000000 tour.lire = 1,62232 dollars.USA. Banknotes from 1.000 to 5.000.000 tour.lir. From the words of local residents, they have a big inflation, it happens more frequently than in Russia.
Transport. The most common transport is "Dolmushi" – mini-buses that stop hand. They are chickens along hotels, as well as the most popular routes. Prices for the trip more than moderate, and the movement intervals are frequent. You can also use a taxi, but it is expensive, as in Turkey, expensive gasoline. Rental cars are issued to tourists who have reached 21 in the presence of driver’s license. All machines are insured, the rental period and kilometer are unlimited. Payment – for cash, as well as gasoline at filling stations. 1 liter of gasoline costs about 0.75 dollars. per liter. Price for renting a car in Turkey starts from $ 35. in a day.
Information. Visa you get immediately upon arrival at the airport in Turkey. This instant procedure will cost you $ 10. In Turkey, it is customary to give tip service personnel: porter, waiter and t.D.. about 10% of the total cost of the service. There is no difference in time with Moscow. Population of the country in 1990. amounted to 57 million. human.