Two Lima Lima
Peruvians have their own pride, and they prevent her foreigners immediately by arrival: the capital airport is named Jorge Chavez. So called the bold pilot, who for the first time in Europe tried to fleuding the Alps. He was from Peru. In one of the squares of Lima, a monument was put. He died, but glorified Peru, the Peruvians say.
All those who come to Lima pleasantly amazing her historical center. City authorities managed to bring order. Now foreign tourists can safely admire colonial monuments, not bumping on every step on tents or trading carts, as it was before. Nechaznaya Painting is inferior to stone houses – one-storey, then two-story, from where the main metropolitan prospect – Avenida Nicholas de Pierola begins, or, as it is called in the city, Kolmine. Avenue reaches a few kilometers. But it is especially beautiful in the very center of the city in San Martin Square, where there are no ugly shacks, nor the silent mansions of local nobility, nor self-reading skyscrapers, erected by foreign companies and banks.
In the afternoon in the center of Lima is always lively. Trade streets that fill in Kolmeva, as if streams in the big river, boil until late evening. Pale in Avenide, they persistently remind themselves with loud-haired shouts, car beeps, bus brakes. Buses, although the population is departed (there is no metro in 8 million Lima), are a matter of disaster. Their inconspicuous number is large and micro, but they have something in common: they have long served their age. Mercilessly and signal, they overtake each other in the hope of getting an excess passenger, violating the most elementary rules of movement.
The movement is monitored by cute girls in elegant green uniform. In the fight against corruption, which unfolded in Peru after the fall of the Fuchimori regime, the local authorities of 80 percent reduced the male composition of the metropolitan road police, replacing it with women who, on the conviction of the mayor’s office, less support for bribes. Indeed, women cannot manage to violators "foaming", but order from this on the roads of the capital for some reason did not improve.
And in the evenings, when there are multi-colored lights of advertising on the roofs of hotels, the lights of large and small benches filled with many souvenirs from silver and fur lamas will be brightly lit up, the flow of pedestrians will be dark.
The Peruvian capital has many people, and one of them is inexpressively and sad. If you go to the north-west and north of Lima, it will seem that it seems to be the whole city around somehow a student to Earth. Instead of concrete – brick, instead of red roofs of tiles, characteristic of wealthy areas, at best, corrugated iron. Luxury cars do not stop here. From time to time, a dusty bus or cooperative taxi appear, the doors of which when moving you need to either hold, or fasten the wire.
The inhabitants of these quarters with their weekly earnings no matter anywhere can settle. With a beggar salary in several dozen salts in the north, they would die from cold and hunger. But forever heating the Lim Sunny, although rarely appearing in the sky, eliminates the care of warm apartments, from the cost of heating and the purchase of warm clothing.
Peruvian journalist Khota Rodriguez Flores showed me not only an elegant column and aristocratic regions of San Isidro, Miraflores and Monterrico, where everything is clean, washed and where in some streets in order to comply with silence and ecology is prohibited by the movement of buses. Hota, as the brief name is his colleagues, led me on the round area of Union. She is remembered at first sight – the carts are placed everywhere, trays of small retailers, dodged with greens, fruits, various lots. The area is always full of buyers, because prices here are lower than in the municipal market in the city center.
Not far from Square, Union shifted through Riemak Roman Wide Bridge. By the way, distorting the name of the river, Spanish conquistadors ordered this city by Lima. View from the bridge does not make glad. The steep city embankment of granite huge hung over the shallow robust. Where the stone shirt ends, in which dressed breakfast shores, the deep ravine begins. At the bottom of his pebble lodge flowing liquid, almost dried in the winter time. This is the river rimak.
And on both shores of the ravine – hundreds of shacks of the poor, blind from pieces of tin, cardboard, plywood. Compared to them the huts that I saw when leaving from Jorge Chavez International Airport in the Peruvian capital, seem to be quite a tolerable housing. You look at these "Swallow nests" And the diva is given how they managed to try to almost the shepherd shores. — This is the most bottom of the capital in the literal and figurative sense, "says Hot. — Whenever I look at these "nests", It seems to me that they are about to oppress and fly down.
But a particularly painful impression remains from the type of so-called "Young towns" — Skoping of global lacrops. Like a giant horseshoe, they surround the city from three sides, and only the ocean prevents them from closing an ominous ring. Peruvians call this horseshoe "Belt poverty". And above him, on the mountain, the White Statue of Christ, with open hands, and next to him is a huge cross, which is brightly highlighted at night, hiding traces of poverty and poverty.
Lima from all sides is surrounded by sands and bare stones. This is the only big city in the world where the sun rarely peers. Above the city always hangs a dense-gray bedspread fog. Instead of long-awaited solar rays from the sky raves "Garua" — Water dust, so small and lightweight that, contrary to all the laws of earthly attraction, it does not fall on the ground, but it remains to hang in the air somewhere at the human chest level. Rain in pride does not happen for years. In Lima there are green lawns, flowers on the flower beds and in the squares in the squares, but where the person’s hand will not provide the earth moisture, she is lifeless. The same Hot I told me that the Spanish conquistadors got into these edges at that rare moment when the sun was shone and the question — "It is always here so", The Indians threw their heads, and the Spaniards decided to stop their choice on this place, on the sheer coast of the Pacific Ocean.
In the Cathedral of Lima costs the coffin, one wall of which is made of glass. This in order to all can see Francisco Pizarro. In 1532, this Spanish Conquistador, former Swinserg, came to Peru from Panama with an armed detachment (62 cavalryist and 102 infantrymen) and won the Multi-Lien State of Incas, defeating the development of this unique civilization. Near the coffin is always full of people. Looking at dusty mummy, people argue about long history. But for some reason, it is still afraid of a formidable conquistador in a whisper, as if.
Arriving converge on the fact that he won the Empire Inca cunning, cunning and cruelty. And all this Pizarro tried to justify the dogma of the Catholic religion, which came along with him. Spaniards forcibly, fire and sword baptized in the sun. Indians have repeatedly tried to rebel against the aliens, but were brutally suppressed. Most of them, fleeing from final destruction, retreated into hard-to-reach mountains. People died from a new order and from the diseases brought from the old world. For the first 50 years of the dominion of Spain, the population of Peru decreased at 6-8 times.
In the center of Lima is the arms area – Plaza de Armaas. Here on July 28, 1821, the independence of Peru was proclaimed. There is also a bronze founder of Lima Francisco Pizarro in stirrupping on a raised horse, with a raised pick-up and steel spear in his right hand. Indians from the depths of poncho, defeated over the shoulder, are reverently look at the rider. The oldest schoolchildren appeared, who came to look at the founder of the city. They lead themselves quietly, like mice, and look right in the mouth teacher, telling about the history of the city and the state, in which there is a lot of bitterness and glory.^ End: