Two months in Central Asia

We warmly spent 2 months in Central Asia and we want to briefly tell how it was. In our post there will be photos, then some remembered funny stories and useful information.



Our route

On him liked most:Fan Mountains, Dushanbe, Bukhara.
And a little bit in opinions were separated by: Anya liked Alai, Sasha – Pamir.

I remembered the roads:
From Kulyab to Khorog all FIG!
From Murgab to Osh oh the road is good!


Below – Useful Links-Addresses for Budget Travels in Central Asia.

The hotels are quite expensive, so we perfectly fit into a private hostel for students of theatrical university at ul. Glinka Gai, d. 13. Hostess call Shahid, very colorful lady.

Lived at the local woman Mahabat with her cheerful grandson. On the square of the minor there is a hookah, he should be on your left hand – go to the arch. On the first turn to the left, there until I stop, then right, house 6. We paid $ 10 per day. For cash, Mahabat may help with registration.

Generally, in Uzbekistan, sometimes it is more profitable to spend the night in the train.
So we did: from Bukhara to Samarkand and from Samarkand to Tashkent spent the night in the train.
Buy tickets in advance. PlazcarPurt is replenished quickly.

Lived at the local, behind the city at the foot of the mountain next to the Suliman Mountain, if you go from the city. The house is on the opposite side from the automotive market.
You can ask where the family lives, which gives the rooms to travelers.
Cost per night – about $ 5 for two.

Sarah Mogol
This village on the road to the basic camp at the peak of Lenin. Lived in CBT camp (Community Based Tourism). Cost of the place for the tent per night about 200 rubles. But for Russian students, tourists can also pass the place for 100.

Peak Lenin
Near the Pamir Expedition camp in the tent lived in the basic camp. Did not pay.
Ate from local residents living nearby. $ 5 per plate Plov / soup. Such prices.

Pleasant city. Very nice.
As a result, we returned 3 times in Dushanbe. It was very great.
And in our opinion, it was the best place: we were going to go beyond the city to spend the night in a tent, but here we noticed a beautiful hill. Local living on the hill accepted us sincerely: gave water to wash and warm cake.
Separate theme – these are views from this hill to the city. Just a bomb! How to find a place:
If you leave the city from the "waterproof", standing near the market on the right, see the hill ..

Visas. Permites. Borders.

Visas to the countries that we visited is not needed, only registration is needed.

Everything is simple here, if you stay in the hotel, then you can register automatically. But hotels there are not cool and expensive, and we took advantage of the rule that in the first 3 working days registration is not needed. Therefore, for the first time we went to Kyrgyzstan in three days, and for the second time – to Kazakhstan. Between Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, a convenient boundary located 30-40 minutes by bus from Tashkent. Light boundary, though crowded. Everything went fast, this is the favorite story of Sasha that he was in Kazakhstan as many as 25 minutes ..

Registration costs about 600 rubles (90 somon). Is given for a month, and even if you leave the country and drive back, you do not need a new one. Comfortable. Registration is done in any OVIR. Required documents: passport, photo, migration card and copies. We did in Murgab.

Pass in GBAO. In Gorno-Badakhshan, the necessary pass is done for a long time and is quite expensive. He is done in Dushanbe. But there is a small trick – if you drive from Osh, it’s just nowhere to do, we wanted to do in Dushanbe and return. They tried to arrange him in Murgab, we were refused, they said, what can be done only in the capital, so we drove the Pamir without skipping.

Kyrgyzstan. The most friendly country. No registration and visas, and even enter the Russian passport.

Transitions. The most important and positive news: you are foreigners, so on all borders we were conducted either in a separate window, or without a queue. It is convenient and pleasant, because many borders are too loaded ("Pigs, noise Color Asia .."). Under this rule, all boundaries are suitable, except for two.

1. Border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan by Osh. There are no people at all, it’s not very convenient if you are driving hitchhiking. We were there in the evening and managed only to leave Kyrgyzstan. The border of Tajikistan was already closed, so we spent the night in neutral territory.
2. The border between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Cute tanning with Tajik border guards who wished us good luck, we got into hell, called Uzbek customs. If for Tajiks we were great travelers, besides, Russians, then for Uzbeks – drug addicts, which in all pockets were carrying herb or something worse.
But we had only a lot of condoms, in Tajikistan, they are cool and cheap (probably because of the unrequisite). There were 20 of their packs 20, and they all were carefully folded by Sasha in my backpack. They were also in the belt bag and in the pants, in short – in the eyes of the customs I looked at a minimum pornstar. In a light shock, she asked why so much, what a honest answer was received – do not want children. The day for her clearly did not ask, because, continuing the inspection, she removed from my backpack for hands and fingers. For a second, she thought, apparently, comprehending all the information she got about me from my personal belongings. After that, apparently, she pierced deep sadness, and she quickly finished my inspection.

Sasha was a worthy guy of his girl and at that very moment patiently explained the border guards of the names of the tablets, and he had countless many. They were not soared and asked – not exactly prohibited? He was well done until he scattered from a plastic bag his protein. All, gently, speaking alert. But Sasha smiled and offered to try, naturally explained why he needed. They politely refused.

I tried to describe it positive and fun, but in fact it was all pretty tedious and long. So be patient and get rid of condoms and protein.

About the city that seemed to us the most friendly, fresh and positive – about Dushanbe.

  • Mark Chung-Chang and UFO – according to Sasha.
  • For my taste, ice cream from automatic machines tastier))

: I remember Dushanbe the lack of traffic jams, delicious ice cream, our open shower overlooking Dushanbe, old trolley buses and a common warm, homely atmosphere.

Botanical Garden in Dushanbe.
Sasha was interesting to see the rosary. He came to the guards and very politely asked:
"Tell me, please, and where is the rosary?"
The guards responded in the same way: "Che?"
I realized that this is not an option, but Sasha did not lose "Please tell me where the rosary is located"
And again: "Che?" . And so time 3.
We have already walked to the exit and, about a miracle, we meet an intelligent unhealthy, which on our question indicates where the rosary is located.
What I honestly told him that he was the first man in this Botsad, who at least knows something.
In response, the uncle handed me a hand and introduced himself:
"Director of Botanical Garden, Yusupov".

Sources that we used to prepare:
-site bpclub))
-Lonely Planet, but as always filtering information from this guidebook
-Krotov’s book and Sapunov "middle Asia. Practical guidebook. "
-Panoramio.Uz – very decent and beautiful source

Local residents have also helped us.
Many thanks for info.

Separately, it is worth telling how we moved:

We did not put any specific goals for timing.
We decided that let everything go, how comes.
In reserve We had 55 days, Therefore, we could afford a lot 🙂

Two months in Central Asia

Sasha: "Personally, I sought to organize a more harmonious journey, focusing not at the sights and types, but on a comfortable "Life in the journey".
That is, without a delay I was ready to sacrifice the view of the peak of Lenin for the sake of the appearance of Ani 🙂
We could go in for sports in the park instead of the museums, or sleep, without reaching only 2 km from Jashilkul, because I do not want to go in bad weather to watch the lake for show".

Learn how to score on a desire to see all the beauty and not to be greedy species – it’s damn important in the Pamirs: in this region overload occurs quickly – all the same height makes itself felt.
Even local children, we were playing football near Jashilkul, deflated after ten minutes of active run. What can we say about us, urban.
Yes. Then each of his opinion and his principles. But personally, I walk 20 km with a backpack weighing 30 kg at altitudes from 3500 gives a little pleasure. By this I am most like to work: because time is money -.
And I tried to sacrifice time and energy to enjoy the views and communicate with people in the conscious state.
If I had a spare couple of thousand $, I would have behaved differently.
For example, an Englishman, Mark, took with friends rented a jeep at a cost of 80 cents per km, and went in peace, enjoying the views.

Moving hitchhiking in the Pamirs, too, can become "work":
for example, at the site of Sarah Mogol – Murghab – Alichur – Ishkashim passes on a few cars a day, of which take you want to free a maximum of one . in three days)))
Then you’re all the same word car, but you will know that the local guys are not doing breaks "look at this beauty", and local travel non-stop, so much so that after 2 hours you no longer want nothing more than to stop and rest.

Well, really, why should they have to bring up, when they can pick up local or foreign money. Pamir – a region where the carriage of local people and work with foreigners – this is a business.

Therefore we do not much fooled, but haggling, paid. And moves us to the desired place.
IMHO, it is better to pay a little money than half a day to stand in one place, waiting for cars.
(Walking with heavy backpacks desire is not enough).
Again, there was a time the money.

we spent 55 days on all 30.000 rubles *.
* It does not include the cost of the flight Moscow-Tashkent-Moscow

-Yellow truck of two Americans with their travel project worldwide Whiteacorn.Com. They helped us very much, throwing us from Achur to Khorog.
We have a week left for this short.

Sasha:For the second time I visited Bukhara, Samarkand and Tashkent.
From these three cities Most liked Bukhara, her old town.
In it, you feel comfortable and pacificent.
Walking to yourself well on the old streets, and at every corner – a monument.
Sometimes even the impression that you are in a fairy tale.
There is a lot of interesting things in the city, and it is better not to tell about it – better to show:
Looking at you yourself can outline the places you want to visit.

As for Samarkand and Tashkent – I do not like it there, not my.
Yes, cities are impressed. Yes, Samarkand monuments are very pompous and beautiful.
But touch the culture and get your emotions and in places simpler.

Stay in Samarkand on the second day – dismiss.
But in Bukhara.

But in Bukhara there is such a merryptic musfi.
And here are some funny stories from his life.

Having decided to publicly humiliate the Musfiks for many years of evil jokes, Emir convened his courtesy, seized them in the hall of the palace, and Musfiki ordered to sit at the most honorable place.
The servant put in front of each convolution with donating clothes. Cut, laid before Musfiki, was more than others, and the wrapper it was embroidered with gold. Like everyone, the Musfiki unfolded his convolution, but it was not a silk robe, like others, but a donkey letter.
Courtesome dirty. But Musfi did not change in his face, he began to happily with the Allah and praise the generosity of Emir.
One of those present shouted to him:
– Unhappy, what you enjoy? From such humiliation you should cry!
– Obsiba! – answered the poet. – The people went to the moloss that the emir was in disadvantage, but now everything is clear to everyone that this Solva is incorrect. On the contrary, his Highness is especially favorable to me. What did you get all? Ordinary gifts! And me Mr. Emir complained his own nonsense!

Just at the time when Musfiki on the terrace of the palace talked with Padishah, he entered herald:
– Sovereign, can I give Musfiki your decree in your presence?
– Hand!
Running a scroll, Musfiki read the decree with Padisham appointed him by the head of the Oslov. What did all the officials who received the appointment arrived at the custom, Musfiki put the seal to the eyes, fastened the signature of Padishah, stuck a scroll into the folds of his chalms and, having gotten from the place, he molded Padyshah three deep down. But then he went around Padishah and sat on the terrace with him.
– a new position you, I see, satisfied, "said Padishah," I don’t understand just why you sat down above me?
– with his gracious command, sovereign, – replied Musfiki, – you were given at my disposal and ourselves. And therefore, by direct meaning, I have the right to this place.
– Musfiki! – Padishah indignant, – You are not only brazen, but also. I do not know if you yourself from the donkey at least on the span?
Musfiki quickly measured the distance between themselves and Padishah:
– precisely, Your Majesty, – Exactly to PJ!

Interpretation of sleep Emir.
Emir saw in a dream that all his teeth fell out. He caused a dream interpreter.
– I can not hide the truth, – said that – your children and all your relatives will die before you!
For such a gloomy prediction, Emir ordered the executive executive. After execution, Emir met with Musfiki.
– Can you at least explain to me the true meaning of my strange dream?
– Good dream, – replied Musfi. – You will live in this light longer than your children and relatives!
Soothed Emir generously rewarded Musfiki.

Tale in the eyes

And at the end I want to tell about our little project

I and Anya like to test with the children: the children’s world is riddled and beautiful, and they are very much infected with positive, fun with them. Moreover, personally they often saved from depression.
Maybe someone also occurred to the thought that you can volone for children in the course of travel. So we did in relation to children of remote villages.
As a result, we are very positive and useful to spend time together.

Motivation My like. Different people have different needs. And someone need not only species, food, communication. Some feel the need for activities. Who is familiar with protracted travel and satisfying from them, will understand me.
So, joint activity with children helps to diversify the way, make it more harmonious. And you feel happier in the journey.

As for the formalities:
We had simple musical instruments, soft toys on the hand of ala-puppet theater and a skier expander. Plus We bought gifts: balls of 6 pieces, souvenirs-dolls pieces 15, color pencils and paper – I don’t remember how much.
All left bucks 120-150. I am sure that this is a nonsense, compared to what we got in return.
Also important skills and skills of communication with children.
I am lucky with this in some sense, because I sometimes work in children’s camps, and it helps me strongly.
But ultimately, I consider it a more important desire to communicate with children, openness and positivity – all this feel very well.
They often don’t care what you can’t play with them in anything – they just want to take off and talk.

As you can see, our attitude towards children remote villages was conscious and planned. But we did not try to find children, and play with them – everything turned out somehow by itself: the children themselves appeared next to us, and in our backpacks there was an inventory so that we could all together play sports and creativity.

As a result, I believe that we are not the fact that Volonelli for children. We just have been friends with them.


. That journey it turned out. Anya: 3 months before that, I flew out of 5 * Hotel Egypt and thought that I would never have a web there – tired. I wanted something new. I wanted – got. I learned to put a tent and turn the sleeping bag, cook on the burner, to carry a backpack (as his mother called – snailing house), carbon and distinguish between Uzbeks and Tajiks. And I loved this life.
I would come back again? – Yes
It’s cooler than Egypt? – Yes, if so in a thousand
It’s cooler than surfing? -EEE, can I compare them, reflecting in the next post. Oh Bali.

Two months in Central Asia

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