Two weeks up legs
Before the departure, there was still a lot of time, and the nerves were already at the limit. In the mind, I sweared: so, almost eight hours of summer to Canary, minus three hours – the difference in time, an hour at the airport of the capital of the Islands of the Las Palmas Grand Canary Island, seven more to Cuba, where there will be evening, and in Moscow, the next morning of the next day. Then night in Havana and another fifty summer to Yucatana. It turns out almost sixteen hours in the sky. The further believed, the more impurient it seemed to get to Mexico.
Mexico. In taxi at night do not go. far from swimming, there are sharks. Every familiar who happened in Mexico (there was little such), and everyone did not happen (these are fully) warned us, two Moscow journalists, about the innumerable dangers of this country. For fun two weeks – to another hemisphere, to the country, about the details of the life of which most of us know exclusively by "soap operations".
Airplane Cuban Airlines "Cubana" Under the clue, it turned out to be native Tu-154. A few minutes before takeoff to the place ahead of us a tourist. "This to Havana goes?" – She asked such a tone as if it were about a flight bus. "Gone", – We said. The plane began to maintain on the runway.
Our fellow travelers were Cubans who returned from business trips; Russian Cuban wives with children; Spaniards; Large group of Russian tourists flying to Canar. And only in seven people the end item was Mexico. On the way, Cubans on Loman Russian robbin joined a hard life with the developed socialism on the island of freedom. Russian wives of Cubans, who left at one time in Cuba to work under the contract, so there and the remaining, complained about low salaries and scarce food, but to return to their homeland, apparently, were not going to.
Fortunately, one place next to us turned out to be free. With a distant flight, it turned out to be a special luxury, and we used it as you could. When at the sixteenth hour of flight the body has already taken away from unthinkable poses that had to be taken to at least somehow rearrange, finally announced an emergency landing at the Joso MartT airport. Everyone was given on the form, which was then necessary to present on passport control: who, why and why the Cuba flies. "Transito" – Written.
The tall ebony-border guard has long twisted my passport and the completed questionnaire, trying, apparently, to find something compromising.
– How much will you stay in Havana? Where stops? Why fly to Mexico through Cuba?
After all the questions let go.
Two apples were selected on customs control – all of our dinner. We forgot that fruits can not be pronounced. For the entrance to Cuba had to pay fifteen dollars (and the same on the way back). For more than fourteen, we were taken to the central hotel Havana, from which the new city and the ocean is clearly visible, – Hotel Habana Libre. Despite the late hour, Havana met the heat. Wet after a five-minute tropical airproof air was saturated with a shroud-and-sweet aroma of flowering plants. It seemed that time was stopped here somewhere at the beginning of the eighties. On the streets bara acales old "Muscovites" and "Zhiguli", And only a taxi was "foreign cars". The unusually beautiful old Havana fade in his eyes, and about the new here only dream. Tourists prefer not to stay long ago – two days, and then on the coast. And we flew to Cancun the next morning.
At Cancun Airport, which is located in thirty kilometers from the city itself, we met us new "Chevrolet". Collecting on 22 dollars (transfer there and back), brought to Zona Hotelia. I have not yet gotten accustomed to the forty-fertile heat, we barely got into the car, included powerful air conditioners (fortunately, they are here everywhere – in cars, buses, shops and shops) and immediately frozen. The third in our company was a timid Frenchman, not talking in any language, except his native. He was very happy, hearing from us: "Salut! Nous Parlons Frannais". True, happiness did not last long: he went out before us.
The driver caught talkative: while they drove, managed to tell almost everything about Cancun and about temperament of real Mexican guys. "You B "Las Velas"? Oh beautiful, fine!"
Club Las Velas Club Hotel is located on the spit, in the very shore of the lagoon. Go to the left – the Caribbean Sea, go to the right – Laguna with crocodiles. True, closing ahead, we admit that for all the time you have not been noticed in Cancun in Cancun. They say they are numbered here until 180, but they crawl more at night, and they do not swim close to the beach: too noisy. The abundance of reptiles did not bother to swim, ride a water scooter, surfing, kayaks and kayaks.
In the reception of us first "Ocoltsevali", Each of each on the hand is a soft plastic bracelet with a personal number and name of the hotel, which was supposed to wear all the time staying. In this initial, we saw some encroachment on personal freedom and independence. But all the advantages were rated on the first day. The happy possessor of the blue bracelet on the territory of the club is relied: there are free and drinking what and how much of the day, for free use of sports equipment (the exception is scooters, yachts, motorboats), swim in any of the three pools, sunbathe and swim on the beaches of the lagoon and Caribbean, belonging to the club, be simultaneously a member and viewer of daily entertainment, suitable students from different countries – "AMIGOS TEAM" ("Team of friends") and folk groups, and much more. In general, the system "All inclusive" in its best version.
"Las Velas" – a kind of city in the city, drowning in greenery and colors, with hulls and villas for 250 rooms, pools, shops, restaurants and snacks, their turbo. All entrances and exits are protected from foreign outfit police. And only the magic bracelet gives the right to engage in possession "Las Velas". The accurate, if any, had to languish behind the door. We ourselves were convinced of the guard’s vigilance, leaving persuasion of two young Mexicans to conduct us "to home" After the disco late in the evening. After having missed senorit, the guards blocked the way the young Caballero: "Your bracelets?"
Among the holidaymakers in Club Las Velas, the British and Scottish prevailed, did not lag behind Wales from the latter; The Americans and the Hispanic Population of the Planet – Ecuadorians, Colombians, Argentines, Spaniards were a considerable part. Germans, Austrians and Japanese were consistent. We were also only two, but those we were good, as for those present were of particular interest: we had one thing that we had to do a sixteen-hour flight, we built us in the eyes of Mexicans in the rank of heroic women.
Live in "Las Velas" so rich and thought out to the smallest detail that in the first days I did not even want to crawl on the entrance gate. Only on the Caribbean coast, as they bother every day in a relaxed lagoon did not seem particularly tempting.
At halfned and in eleven one "Amigo" I collected a lot of those who wish to sunbathe on the sandy sea beaches and accompanied to the city bus (for which we also did not pay). Less than ten minutes along the braid, and here it is, the long-awaited sea and the cool shadow of coconut palm trees. Tourists from the heat were stigled with all sorts of creams from and for the sun, and substituted Tel tools to a scorching sun (by the way, without a cream and headlife, it makes no sense to even go outside). More fearful hiding under low palm trees. We pretty quickly preferred to rest active. They took a rental scooter – one for two ($ 35 for half an hour) – and went to fight the emerald green water of the Atlantic. In addition to wild, creepy, incredible delight, no other feelings. Over the huge speed, sidelines were swept over, leaving the splashes fountains behind them. And in the sky swollen "parachutists", firmly fucked tied with a cable to the category. "And we here", – We thought and decided "Rearable" on parachutes.
After long disputes, who can be the first, flew only one of us. I also had to sacrifice myself, staying with a camera on a ship, which I subsequently regretted. Evaluating the courage of the beautiful Muchacha, good indeer stuck whole ten dollars, although with a different scenario (that is, another physique) would have to pay $ 40-45 for fifteen minutes.
Soon for us came "Taxi" – A small engine boat – and drove us to a boat that drifted in some distance from the shore. While we were arranged on the boat, landed a very pale Frenchman. "Je Me Fais Mal!" ("I feel bad!"), "he said and, taking his wife and daughter, immediately left for the boat. It could serve us for a warning, but we understood it too late.
The cable to which the parachute was tied was quickly unwound, and soon the parachute was turned into a mosquito soaring in the air. Ten minutes later "Komarik" began to swing his hands hardly, as if welcoming us. In response, we (I and two crew members) also joyfully waved. Only when the cable wounded again on the drum, we realized that the greeting was actually a plea about the decline: my girlfriend was once already in the first minutes of flight. Remembered the pale french, and everything became clear: we can not be parachuts.
Bicycles appeared more reliable. We took them in the rental station at the hotel (two hours – $ 12, for a day – $ 24) and went to explore the Cancun resort area. The whole braid, stretching along the coast from north to the south, turned out to be built out exclusively by hotels, as well apparently, and got the name Zona Hoterelia. Modern Mexican architects, if they wanted, could find in our grateful fans of their talent. Stormy fantasy surpassed all our expectations. Seen could not be compared, for example, with the same type of hotels of the Mediterranean. In Cancun, the culture of the East – the heritage of the Spaniards and Mavrov – Rights with the culture of American Indians: the bizarre form of the hotel complexes with turrets, lades on the outside of houses and mosque, causing in memory of Arab cities, slender modern monoliths made of glass and concrete, small bungalows with roofs from cane leaves. Everything is painted in delicate pastel tones or screaming bright paints of tropical colors – purple-red, lilac, orange.
Twice selected in Cancun. From the area of hotels to Downtown Cancun, you can reach the bus for three peso ($ 1 = 7.45 Peso) or by taxi ($ 4) – just five to seven minutes. Since the language of Indians Maya Cancun translates as "Place SMY", which, according to local residents, are found here in relative abundance. To our horror, the translator, who accompanied us on all excursions, told us how the snake had spacing himself on the day before, had the audacity to penetrate her into the apartment on the front staircase. Our attention was balled exclusively iguana (something average between lizard and varan), crawling almost everywhere, including on the territory of the hotel, – the creatures are terrible only in appearance, quite harmless and special attention because not deserving.
Central Street Cancun Tulum All consists of private shops, souvenir shops, supermarkets and large department stores. By the way, bargain with Mexicans – special entertainment, from which, truth, quickly get tired. For the first time you start timidly, but the instinct of triggers wakes up. You need to bargain almost in any store, except for supermarkets and branded shops, where the prices are solid. Easy to argue with the Indians. Almost everyone can persuade in a couple of minutes. The more you buy in one shop, the easier it is to get a discount. It turned out that the price can be shot down in two, and even two and a half times.
White Mexican will stand to death. After prolonged disputes, it still manages to break into a few dollars, rarely when more, after which he with an offended view will wait until you leave. "Amiga, you ruin an honest poor Mexican", – says the owner of some jewelry shop.
By the way, jewelry shops here, probably two or three per capita. No self-respecting woman will allow himself to pass by. Prices for silver and gold excellent sample – quite acceptable. If you do not wear earring, they will be redone them for ten minutes, the bracelet will decrease just in hand, and the rings in one moment will be on the fingers, and you yourself will not have time to notice how to buy everything. In the meantime works, the owner meets:
– Ola, Amiga! You do not speak Spanish?!
Goes into English:
– A, you are Italian! No? Portuguese? Colombian? German? Russia?! Oh, Russia! What beautiful mucachas!
And so every time. Russians in us immediately nobody wanted to admit – here they are very rare.
But besides Cancun there were still holidays on Isla Mujeros (Women’s Island) and the ancient cities of Maya Tulum Indians and Read-ITCA. Excursions We paid in the agency accepted by us – $ 60 per person for one trip to the pyramids. Before the ruins of Tulum, located south of Cancun (131 kilometers), traveled three hours on a large comfortable bus. I do not know how other Mexican drivers, but our performed a bunch of responsibilities. Not only was he led by a huge bus along the narrow roads, laid among the jungle, he still managed to chat with guides, greet the familiar drivers traveling towards meeting, and even replace in some sense of the waiter, ensuring tourists dying from the thirst after a long walking tour of the cold Coca jar -Glas or beer bottle. At the same time, he himself kindly opened it, releasing the steering wheel from the hand. And it does not matter that the hearts sitting behind him from fear of fear, – the service is still!
On the way, stayed in the Indian villages. The bus was immediately surrounded by Indians of Maya, offering fragile wooden statuettes of idols, drawings on the skin, poncho, sheds – household mats, which they hide in cold weather and settle the floors of their huts, hammocks. Maja in Mexicans special attitude. They seek a lively relic, a bitter reminder of long-hazardous times, when the civilizations of Aztecs and Maya flourished on this earth. Descendants of the Great Mayan – like good-natured children. Short, with round, like sun, faces and diagonal eyes. The skin is not red, like most South American Indians, and Dark. And one more distinctive feature, which we told us about how big secrete: Each Maya baby is born with mark on his back, just below the lower back, resembling a big bruise. For twelve, the spot disappears without a trace.
On the way back from Tulum, two hours spent in the town of Walway (XEL-HA). The rocks of the coastline formed here the wonderful beauty of the lagoons, in which you can swim in masks, watching the underwater world of the Caribbean. Wooden walkways for diving will approach the water itself. For the rental point of the snake, the turn was drawn: there were masks, flippers and life jackets. Dozens of divers in the same blue vests sinks in the water, lowering the face under the water, from time to time through the tube muffled cries of delight. The rest, drowned from the heat, swayed in hammocks, in a large number of tensioned between high palm trees on the shores of the lagoon.
In Chichen ITCU went online. On the way, Valladolid was stopped in a small Indian town – the most sad place of new world, according to Mexicans themselves. Descendants Maya also live here.
Around the tourists who came out of the bus to walk around the city, a crowd of children and old women, dressed in traditional Mayan costumes – IPIL. "Uno Peso, Amiga, Uno Peso!" So go followed a person five to six. Traded with scarves with embroidery, blouses, wooden statuette, hammocks and honey. Live in most part in the wreck huts: Furniture is no, only the floors are removed with colorful saraps. For a long time we were not delayed here.
Only approaching Chichen-Itts, we saw a high pyramid towering over the jungle. 4 stairs with 91 steps each, total 364 steps. The top is the top of the stupid, symbolizing the last, 365th day of the year. From afar, it was seen as tourists, like ants, on all fours zigzags (so that the head did not turn around) climbs up to top almost vertical stairs. We also climbed. From here, the ruins of sanctuary are clearly visible, surrounded by jungle from all sides.
Two weeks flew like one day. There was already a countdown in the mind: an hour before Havana, sixteen to Moscow. And in Moscow. And in Moscow nine hours more than here we have, in Mexico. In Reception with us removed magic bracelets. Before the departure there were still four hours left, and we already felt with the renewal, expelled from Paradise. We have allowed to have dinner, put the rest of the entertainment. Without seeing the usual bracelet on the hand, each policeman knocked to check, but seeing an extract, politely moved away: "Adios, Amiga!"
They drove familiar "Chevrolet" And took to the airport. $ 12 from the nose – consular fee. Sit on the nerves at Cancun Airport. Flight to Havana. Suddenly there is noise, screams, someone’s hands. Everyone who was rushed one way. Well, we think, God forbid, what a plane fell or a fire. We also ran. But near TV crowd sharply slowed down and again in a cry. It turned out, football. In Atlanta, Mexicans scored a goal of Portuguese. In a few minutes – tense moment. People sat down again to TVs. After another goal for sellers in the stalls began to entertain the fans cookies and chips, just.
It seemed to us that we too are rooting for their. for Mexicans.
"I" expresses particular gratitude to the tourist company "Euroexpress", Organized trips to Mexico.