Under the sounds of the Portuguese romance
Portuguese and Russians Rodnit Much. Lisbon – like our Moscow – lies on seven hills. Yes, and the patron of two capitals is the same – Holy George. But most of all, it seems to me that urban romances are related to us, or as they are called them here (from the Latin word "Fatum" – fate). We love under the melody of bards – whatever it is – to sink about non-faithful times.
I barely rose to the funicular in Bairra Alto – "Upper quarter" Lisbon, an elderly man approached me and put an advertising prospect of the establishment called "Luzu".
– Only there you will hear a real faad, "he assured and, apparently, to interest even more, showed on a tear-off coupon, for which you can get a free portion of Portwine.
I took a color leaflet and went on, manifiable by a twilight of mysterious streets. Then came to me again – with a leaflet "Kanteon Kamense", And soon I had already accumulated a whole collection of advertising avenues "Only here" hear "Genuine Fad". There was a late evening. Bairra Alto awakened to nightlife.
It was my first day in Lisbon, and therefore I wanted to just wander around his streets. Yes, and to fully imbued with Fada, you must pass a kind of acclimatization.
After all, Fada is one of the most characteristic elements of Portuguese and, first of all, Lisbon culture. Can be said fate, overlapping music. Fada is written in a free manner in the form of four-line stations, which are based on some story or just feeling. There is a faad of lyrical and love, there are dramatic and even thieves. But in any case, they express the state of the soul.
Fada is always performed under a small but twelve "Guitar Portuguezo". Unlike Spanish, which acts as bass, the Portuguese guitar leads a melody. But what is interesting, guitar herself in Portugal got relatively recently. And, like the most "Portuguese drink" Portwine was born not without the help of English merchants, and the guitar was delivered by merchants and sailors from Misty Albion. English cisom – predecessor "Guitar Portuguezo" – First appeared in the XVIII century in the city of Porto, where he soon became a fashionable tool in secular salons. And after a very little, the guitar was so mastered in the country, which became a completely national musical instrument.
As a phenomenon, Pure Portuguese, Fada, however, has developed from a variety of elements. In Romance, it is not difficult to trace the impact and African, and Brazilian music. But especially – the musical and vocal traditions of the islands of the Green Cape. By the way, Cape Verde’s music is still very popular in Portugal.
But all these influences were destined to connect in Lisbon. "Athens created the sculpture, Rome was significant, Paris invented the revolution, Germany opened mysticism. And Lisbon as created? Fad", – noticed an outstanding Portuguese writer Esa de Caireos. And that’s why he explains that "Lisbon has also retained the original tomotability of light and freshness: despite the asphalt, in the factory, on gas lights, on the paved embankments, here spring is still listening to the verses of the wind; And on the roofs still kissing pigeons; And everything else is as if heard in silence, as the air flows through the slots of stone buildings, as if the living blood of the melancholic city. And God-poet still did not fell into the disgrace of the crowd".
Link to melancholicity – not accidental. Whatever Fada was, there is always some longing and sadness in it, which seems to be in the national character of Portuguese. And again without comparison with Russian nature can not do. And this is not only my opinion. Somehow in a conversation familiar Portuguese journalist Jose Millazes Pintt noted: " Portuguese are like Russian. First of all, faith in a good king and nostalgia in the great past".
In the XV-XVI century, as a result of the famous marine discoveries, Lisbon became the capital of the largest world empire – from Morocco to Cape of Good Hope and from Brazil to Macau. However, this great empire existed for long. In 1578, the young king Sebashtian (Sebastian), driven by outdated knightly ideals, moved by a crusade against Mauri in Morocco. And in the battle with Alkasar-Qvivire was the headwound. Only 60 people from 18 thousand soldiers returned from the field of BRANI. The king himself disappeared without leaving heirs. This event was finally undermined by the Portuguese power, which began to melt back during his predecessor – Zhuana III – due to the mindless disbuting of the wealth. The situation was used by the Spanish King Philip II, who seized power in the country.
But the King Sebashtian king in the Moroccan sands in the Portugal itself was not wanted to consider the dead. Moreover, announced "welcome" – they say he is waiting and confident that he will come back. by the way, "Cult Sebastianism" – Faith in the return of the former greatness, besides, mixed on the long-term long-term, is still alive.
Famous Sebastian was a poet and a singer of life in the style of Fada Fernanda Pesoa. Stupid in bronze, now he sits right in the middle of the street at the entrance to the Lisbon cafe "Brazilera" – His headquarters, so to speak. With Fada-fate really connected his own, no matter how told, bohemian, lifestyle. And how could it be different when the phady sounds in taverns, restaurants and zucchi, where there is always wine, late feast, flashabling novels.
But the faad can be heard not only in Lisbon. "Fate, shifted to music", The ancient city of Coimbra is famous in the central part of the country, where one of the oldest is located – if not the oldest in Europe – University. There you fulfill the students who are destined in black mantle. But if the Lisbon faad is saturated with notes of disappointment, then the optimism of youth is more felt in the coimbre.
To make sure this is enough to get to the student party or simply go to one of the restaurants of the city where youth going. Speak, Chairman of the Portuguese Parliament of Almeida Santos, who studied in Coimbre, also sometimes pleases the listeners by the execution of FAD.
Unlike Coimbra, where Fada is prerogative only men and women are singing in Lisbon. One of them – Amelia Rodrigsh – became a real symbol of Lisbon Fad. Her star of Queen Fad did not die, even when she completely aged. Celebrity she became completely accidental. At one time she traded the fish and at the same time he loved to sing. Once he heard one impresario, and immediately solved the great talent in it. When Amelia Rodrigush died in the fall last year, in Portugal was almost a national mourning.
Recently, a lot of faad restaurants have appeared in Lisbon, designed specifically for tourists, where instead of the real "Fate" You can expect a regular show in the cabaret. So, I think, I am extremely lucky that I did not take advantage of advertising leaflets, and I went to the labyrinth of the narrow streets of the alphaba near the Ceathedral of the CE.
There in one of the old houses close to each other is located "Clubi di Fad" ("Club Fad"), who recommended my Portuguese friends. The hall of the restaurant unexpectedly turned out to be spacious and light. But as soon as the faada began to sound, the light was muffled. Everything was immersed in darkness. Immediately stopped all sorts of conversations. Even the waiters have been drilled. For the evening, somewhat switched overnight, several singers changed – a young man, a girl and then quite an elderly man who was met and accompanied by the most prolonged applause. They were all in black, as if in Tour.
I didn’t understand the words. But, frankly, this is not necessarily. You still worship melody and voice. And listen, see Fada – the best way to understand Portugal. Therefore, even if the advertising leaflet is invited to invite the advertising leaflet, you should go to the twilight Bairra-Alta or Alphala and dedicate one of the evenings in Lisbon Fad. So that at least slightly touch the fact that in Portugal is called fate.