Uruguayan specificity and a little – our
Getting ready for a trip to Uruguay from Argentina, where my Corporal is located, I carefully checked my luggage. When issuing a visa, I was strictly warned: exclude any meat products, vegetables and fruits. Uruguayan sanitary authorities are vigilantly to ensure that the products are prohibited to import products. Violators expect major trouble.
These rigors are designed to protect against the threat of infection The main wealth of Uruguay – millions of cattle heads. After all, by 3.2 million Uruguayans fall, in different estimates, 8-10 million cows and 15-17 million sheep. This explains the fear with which it is followed by how to eat Europe from such misfortunes as a cow’s rabies and a lush. So it falls on the borders with neighbors – Argentina and Brazil – to build sanitary barriers.
The first was Brazil, to which, as suspected, I still got the lush. True, her authorities argue that they managed to quickly localize the threat of spreading epizotia. Nevertheless, many countries hurried to introduce embargo on the supply of Brazilian beef. Even for such a huge country as Brazil, it was a strong blow. And what to talk about Uruguay? So I had to take very expensive measures there, which were even more tightened when Incen began "to roam" And in Argentina. For example, when crossing the border on a car after passport control and strict customs procedures had to travel through a special pool to wash the wheels in a 10-centimeter layer of disinfectant solution.
Entry by car in Uruguay from Argentina is allowed only through the province, located far from Montevideo, the capital of the country. Immediately by intersection of the border passing along the Uruguay River, we were on a very decent, albeit a two-round road. As the experienced drivers say, it does not affect the speed: just some kind of overtake. For all 70 kilometers of the way there was only three cars to meet me, and I overtook only two. Can be said: not the road, but a dream. Another thing is that sometimes the good canvas suddenly ended and the familiar to the residents of the Russian depths began. Then, however, it is as suddenly under the wheels again turned out to be a good. It can be seen that in the country they undertook for road construction, but it is still far from completion.
End of February, heat under 40 degrees – in the southern hemisphere height of summer. Rare village villages. Most of the population is concentrated in the capital and suburbs. In small settlements around one-storey houses. Perfect cleanliness. And yet – the complete absence of air conditioners, although they need here like air. On the street people no more than cars on the road. If only one house is in the settlement, then the monument to the National Hero of Uruguay José Hervasio Artigas, one of the leaders of the War of Spanish Colonies in America.
Uruguayans even try to emphasize their difference from the Argentineans. Meat in incredible quantities eaten in both countries. Only in Argentina it is mainly prepared on coals, and in Uruguay exclusively on firewood. Coal, convinced here, with combustion distinguishes substances that poorly affect the taste of meat. And here and there it is fried on Parrylie – metal grid. But in Argentina, it is almost always installed horizontally, in Uruguay – at a low angle.
In the drinking conversations, a sore chapel was invariably – a disease of livestock in Argentina. Despite the refutations of the neighbors (at all levels), soon, unfortunately, it turned out that Uruguayans did not invent anything. As a result, Argentina lost almost all of its market sales markets abroad. "And we, Uruguay, proudly emphasized my interlocutors, beef is the best and most environmentally friendly in the world. And no enemy".
The country is populated by the descendants of immigrants from around the world. Many have long experienced themselves "Pure Uruguayans". In the deaf province I met very colorful personalities. Take at least my random familiar Eukhenio Schneider. Gray Hair, Gray Beard, Free Shirt. "Bombach Gauchek" – Wide pants I "Botas de Campo" – Boots in which it is convenient to ride a horse and knead the dirt in the field. Schneider seemed to forgot about costumes and ties. Lives in a huge white house that is 152 years old. It is on the stone cliff, towering over the Uruguay River.
Parents Eukhenio – Germans. His father before the Second World War worked in Argentina by the company engineer "Tissren". Eugenio was born in Buenos Aires in 1940 in the German hospital. The family was thinking about returning to Europe, but with the beginning of the war, all the hunt for this disappeared. Eugenio studied humanitarian science at the University of Argentinean Capital. English literature He taught himself the legendary Jorge Louis Bruheses. In 1960, my friend along with his wife and two children went to live for the city. Earned on bread transfer books. And at 22 threw everything and went to the extreme south of chili. Fans of Mahatma Gandhi, he lived there in isolation from the outside world for more than 10 years. Even the birth of the spouse three times accepted himself and, according to him, never experienced any difficulty.
In 1978, shelling stage ended, and Eukhenio moved to Uruguay, where he was engaged in agriculture, meat and logging production. Now he has a third wife, much younger than him. Senior son from this marriage 12 years. Do not think that Eukhenio is some kind of playboy. He is a prosperous entrepreneur, and his last family does not need anything, and children from early age are used to being the same independent like a father.
Recently, Eukhenio bought a meat processing plant on the banks of the Uruguay River. Together with an extensive plot of land and the already mentioned house. Built it in the last century some rich Greek. The house was long standing in the launch, but the Argentine German German moved to Uruguay, he attracted, and after repair he just fell in love with him. Euhenio believes that capital walls will preserve one more hundred. "For my age enough for sure", – He says. Plot near the house cuts a low fence. You can’t get to the house yourself on the car. It would be possible to make the gate, expand the road, and then guests would be able to approach directly to the house. But Euhenio annoying, "When the car enters into my heart my heart". This, however, does not prevent him from being a welcoming owner: on the table to the guests generously exhibited bottles with march wine. The thought of his price made me sustain, though, to myself.
Extraordinary in everything, Euhenio Even his meat processing plant uses original. There are not only cows and rams, but also hare carcasses imported from all over the country. Once the hares brought from Europe, and they were spread in such a quantity that their shootings are not limited to. A good shooter per night can get up to 200 trophies. On the middle, the hunters shoot 30-40 hares. Eukhenio pays for them 1.2 dollars per piece. And a year exports from 300 to 350 thousand carcasters "back" – to Europe. Hares go naked. The owner with laughter talks about the peculiarities of the Italian market. "There are harvested hares, but in the skirt, with a stale head. For the removal of the eyes, the Italian tells his wife that he was leaving for hunting. And after a couple of days, as an Alibi presents a suspicious spouse a couple "Just instating" Zaitsev. Those most that he bought in the store".
In addition to "Special" Meat in Uruguay has and "special" sweets. Only here make a cupcake chummer than the Casteliano family is extremely proud, which is engaged in this business in the third generation. Chuha (emphasis on the last syllable) invented in 1927 by the Clanian Don Orlando Casteliano, who lived in the city of Payesanda, in the west of Uruguay. Today, his business continues the son and three grandchildren. The eldest in the family gladly tells guests about the intricacies of the preparation of this National Uruguayan delicacy.
There are only two workshops in the country where Chuha is manufactured. One, the main, located in Payesanda. Second, smaller, in Montevideo. Couple export to Argentina. Before Brazil is distant. On the road, something can happen, and the capricious cupcake will deteriorate. In the refrigerator it is stored for a week, at room temperature – the day.
Although the original recipe is patented, cook at home is easy. Record: from sugar and oil, whipping them, make cream cream. The base of the cake is the bottom of the bise, which is smeared with cream like glue. A biscuit triangle is operating on it, which is poured with a jelly-shaped filling of canned strawberries or peaches and sealed with a lid from the same bise. All this is cooked with cream and falls out again by crumb. All, Chuha is ready.
In the room where the cupcake is made, almost all work is done manually, and the norms of hygiene are much more stringent than those set by local authorities. Production can close when the level of contamination reaches 300 conventional units per gram of product. The family is Casteliano monitors that this indicator does not exceed 10 units. If it reaches 15, production stops, and searching "source of infection". Paul wash with a chlorine that does not regret. So much that the floor tile has to change every three or four years. Every two hours there is a break and processing metal tables, on which "Mount" Chuhu. They wipe and watered with clean alcohol, which is ignited. When alcohol burns, work is resumed.
Work start at five in the morning. At any heat work without air conditioning, otherwise the dough "will fall". A day when I got acquainted with production, the temperature was at 40 degrees Celsius. On the number of issues released, it did not affect. Senior from Casteliano drew my attention to the girl, which is 8 hours a day breaks the eggs and separates the protein from the yolk. He says that he was thinking to buy a special American apparatus. But I found out that the car will need only half an hour to do what the worker spends 8 hours. "Why do you need a car, which almost all day will stand idle? Yes, and the girl will lose his job with which in the country is now tense".
Quite unexpectedly in the province turned out to be "Russian corner". I discovered him in Paysanda on the largest in Uruguay factory for the processing of oranges. There not only sort citruses before sending them to export, but also produced orange juice. Just in case I asked if there were any connections with Russia. "And what about! – Managers answered the choir – we actively exported oranges to your country from 1992 to 1998, right up to default". Here it is, the echo of our economic success! I was told that the volume of supplies was measured by millions of dollars. Trade went through Petersburg. There are factory managers, one of which is the descendant of the French in Uruguay, and the other – the British, met with the peculiarities of Russian business. "You are doing peculiar to you, – they have noticed tactfully. – We never transferred money for the goods supplied from Russia itself. Payment walked from anywhere: from some island "Tax Paradise" or Ireland, but not from Russia".
As a result of the default, Russian partners were left by Uruguayans 400 thousand dollars. Making sure that the money is very difficult to return, my friends appealed to one successful St. Petersburg lawyer. Conditions they offered extremely profitable. If the money can be returned, the owners claim only half the amount of debt. The rest can pick up the Russians. Here is the Uruguayans and witnessed witnesses "of a real American militant" On the shores of the Neva. Two unknown people came to the head of the law office, showed him a photo of his child coming from school, and offered to forget about Uruguayan’s debt. What he did.
However, apparently, "Russian specificity" finally did not scare up Uruguayans from the huge market of our country. Local businessmen perfectly understand its prospects and are ready – with the accumulated experience – at any time return. It’s not empty words. They continue to contain officially registered CJSC in St. Petersburg, pay all taxes. There is no staff in ZAO. But this is confident in the distant Paysanda, it is.