And modern boundaries, and the very concept of "Uzbekistan" appeared only in Soviet times. Centuries (and in some years and thousands of years) in this territory there were completely different peoples and there were completely different states. The picture turns out incredibly the pattern – even for Central Asia, which by office is relying with all the colors of the rainbow. In addition, society in Uzbekistan is very patriarchal and for tradition – in every place its own – keeps tight. Therefore, a trip to Uzbekistan should be just a journey – with crossings, adventures and full immersion in an incredible cocktail from Eastern customs and post-Soviet color.
Uzbekistan can be chase months and discover in the most deaf village new, especially a delicious poverty recipe or variety of apricots, and in a lifeless corner of the desert – the remains of the Zoroastrian sanctuary or fortress, Once than one thousand years.
On April 23, 1966, Tashkent survived Catastrophic earthquake, after which the medieval building and the corresponding lifestyle almost nothing left. Most of the city are occupied by the buildings of Soviet times. But everything is not as prosaic, as it seems at first glance.
The most center is built up with modern glass marble giants with a light Asian fler, Surrounded by a boulevard-park area. The bustic of vegetation is quite southern; In the season on the side of the central avenue, you can dial strawberries for a couple of jam buckets. Following the ring of that very Soviet building. And then it starts quite Asian private sector with labyrinths of narrow streets, intelligent to the markets by the giganic Soviet industries, railway junctions and other signs almost three millionth city.
Life on the streets strictly corresponds to Anatura. In the center – men in expensive costumes and white foreign cars (cars of another color in Uzbekistan, it seems, no at all). In areas of high-rise buildings, new cars are diluted with the types of "raffiki" and "Volga". And on the outskirts Arba, dotted with dose and Aksakala in tubets and cotton coats.
Of course, in Tashkent There is no abundance of old architecture, Neither the fabulous atmosphere of Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva, however, there are a lot of places very outstanding.
Not less than half of the day you can spend on Bazaar Chorsu. Translated its name means "four waters", that is, the "intersection", and the first word Tajik, and the second – Uzbek. Amateur guides (near the bazaar you wanted to talk especially many) Early the history of Chorsu at least to Alexander Macedonsky, who purchased Halva here at the Praprataradashi here, who is the relative of your interlocutor in a random coincidence. Anyway, on Chorsu really traded many centuries, And this is a real oriental bazaar, that is, a mini city.
There is here Bath, Mosque and Madrasa (ancient, miracle surviving earthquake), blacksmith workshops, bakeries and counters with all imaginable goods. Main landmark (in addition to rows of fruits, sweets, dishes and spices, where you will hurt you) – Dining courtyard Size with a small football field. Main dish here Naryn – Thin noodles, which is served cold, with chopped straw horse and broth. All other joys of Uzbek cuisine here too. But, of course, in such a gastronomically oriented country and even more so in its capital Each dish need to go to your place.
Eating Plova Go to the "Center of Plov" – the asphalted platform forced by foci with the Casans, where all countless species are preparing Main local dish. To have breakfast fried patties with guts, tea and Syazma (dense yogurt with seasoning) Go to the cafe "Hatra". Behind the tandar sams and kebabs that are served by portions of five skewers … And however, just catch a taxi, say "I want it," and you will be taken to where you follow.
About cultural life, too, do not need to forget. Be sure to move in Hazrati Imam – ensemble of mosques, madrasas and mausoleums built from the XVI century through the past decade. Here is stored The most ancient of the preserved Koran lists – It dates back to VTI century. After that, you can go to search for real architectural antiquities. Madrasa Barak Chan &# 8211; Symbol of Tashkent. This spiritual complex was built In the XVI century and restored in 1955-1963.
Up to the second largest city and the main tourist center of Uzbekistan on the high-speed train "Afrosiab" to go only two hours. Do not paint beauty Square Registan, Mosque Bibi Hano and Mausoleum Tamerlane, Statues of which were replaced by all monuments to Lenin in the country: it’s like to talk about the thousandth time in the guide in St. Petersburg about the palace square.
Unlike Tashkent, in Samarkand you can and you need to settle in something Little, Non-obvious and family. Under such hotels redone in the old private city of many houses with an inland courtyard, an open kitchen, small rooms. (And in Bukhara and Khiva can even be afraid in the student of the former madrasa.) Of course, the original interior will be almost certain Arranged post-Soviet lacquered bedside table and hanging wires from the television, but it’s little things.
Next to the Bibi Han mosque is located Siabsky Bazaar, who, if younger than Chorsu, then quite slightly. It is necessary to go here for the best sweets in the country.
To the north of the bazaar lies a huge settlement of Afrosiab – the oldest district of the city, which goes down to the roots in some very much Unfortunate antiquity. In dusty, creamy color, the hills barely guess city walls and contours of buildings. Excavations are already 40 years old, but has been investigated from the force of 20 percent of the territory. The most romantic place afosiaba – Cemetery in his eastern part, The center of which occupies a lush mausoleum complex Shahi Zin-yes: Blue dome, mosaic, carved tombs.
Tourist attractiveness Samarkand played with him a dick joke. In the desperate gusts of "Improvements", whole urban quarters were broken and widely paved streets were laid instead, framed by typical tents with souvenirs. Local technology "Restoration" is very freakty: destroyed buildings just Associate anew From modern bricks. Because of this, many areas of Samarkand look like a resort hotel, which operates "Thousand and One Night" theme. But do not despair: in Bukhara and Khiva with charm of antiquity everything is fine.
The most patriarchal, Silent and small city from historical pearls of Uzbekistan – Hiva. From Bukhara, it separates 500 more kilometers, so not all get here. And in vain: Time is frozen here in the literal sense.
The new city does not differ much different from the old: deaf walls, narrow street curves, mixed with gardens. The only sign of time – Trolleybus line.
All attractions (and there are no less than in Bukhara or Samarkand) clamped in the walls of the Old Town, which at the same time does not resemble the museum space. Dreams and Korean minibuses will sink through the carved city gates. A wasteland near the medieval cemetery Practically busy garden. Under the serf tower, local residents are boiled, wash underwear and graze cows; All as in the Khansky times, only instead of a sharovar – Blue breakers with lamps.
Even recently, this pastoral is restricted – neither restaurants or hotels, nor decent restoration of architectural masterpieces. In recent years The situation corrected. Madrasa next to the main chivy landmark – massive unfinished Minaret Calta Minar – turned into a hotel. Khivinine Minaret Kalta Minar conceived as the highest in the Muslim world, but never was completed.
With cows and vegetable groceries teahouses and leggings with souvenirs. Dettle of major tourist routes in hand guests: Mandatory Uzbek set – knives, embroidered bedspread, ceramics – here is noticeably cheaper than in Bukhara or Samarkand.
It is felt here, in Khorezm oasis, There is a completely different people. Tubetakes are replaced by lush fur caps, generaluzbek language – Ogzi dialect, and music and It looks like Caucasian. Those who can see, have something to see.