Culley Valley: only gods live above
If you are more interesting to plunge into the depths of the earthly civilization than in a plate with delicacies, if you are able to exchange a beach bed on hiking sneakers, if you think yourself at least a little romantic – it means that this story for you. We will go to the northeast of India, in the very heart of Himalayas – in the flowering valley of the Kula, populated by wild yaks, mountain peoples and numerous gods. I immediately say that it is not easy to decide on such a trip. However, one who really needs it, one day it will definitely be in the Himalayas.
Of such a number of antiquities and such genuine exotic, as in India, it is impossible to find anywhere else. But the country did not become a place of tourism pilgrimage: we are too intimidated by rumors about her unsanitary state. To be honest, here and in fact, not all sterile without exception – but no one will forcibly make you buy buglets on the street, there are bananas with a leather or drink straight from under the tap. Mineral water in plastic bottles can be bought in each shop, with products of European standards there are also no problems, and compliance with the elementary rules of hygiene can insure from any trouble. However, if your trip is organized by a travel company, you and so three times a day are provided with the freshest fruits and the most delicious vegetarian dishes.
The number of firms sending Russians to India can be counted on the fingers: trouble too much, and profit is small – it is much easier to send an extra charter flight to Turkey. And the ability to visit not only India, but the Himalayas and Tibet provides exclusively to the Moscow Tourist Society "Kailas", where enthusiasts work, who sincerely think: the more Russians will be in those places – the better it will be for our country. The representative of this society, who perfectly knows India, meets in the airport of Delhi usually a small group and travels along with her on jeeps, buses, camels, mula and motorcycles.
When you find yourself in Delhi – be sure to visit Kutab Minor, where, besides a unique stone thread, a stunningly high minaret and remnants of an ancient Hindu temple, you can see a stainless column from meteorite iron, distinguished in the 5th century of the new era. Her tip earlier was walked, at one time, sipped by the British and placed in the British Museum. The lower part of the column is polished to the brilliance – it is believed that the one who leaving her back and wipes the back of his hands, in a short time he will experience great happiness. True, the column is rather fat, and not everyone is able to hug it. Previously, the high long-lasting uncle was constantly on duty and for a couple of rupees wrapped the column specifically for you. But recently, he was deprived of business, and all the others – apparently, happiness: Born by space, the pillar was found quite the earthly metal fence, and near the police officer as.
Optional "Kailas" can arrange you a tour of the Jainan Ashram. This is a whole religious complex with a hotel, dining room, premises for prayers and meditation. Jaina – supporters of the teachings of Mahavir and followers of the most peaceful religion on earth, preaching uniqueness of evil living beings. Up to the point that they wear bandages in order to accidentally not swallow the flying insect and thereby not to deprive him of life. Moving on foot, Jaina sweep in front of them to the right and left road dust to not crush anyone. For this reason, they do not have the right to use no type of transport. Becoming Jaina is easy – from a certain day you just need to start performing all the rules for which a real fan of Mahavira lives.
In Himalayas, you should travel on the road, which is indicated on the map as "National Highway number 21". At first glance, it gives the impression of the utmost chaos. Neither traffic lights nor the regulators are observed. Buses buzzing, rattling motoricks, roar trucks, sneeze some homemade raids. Between all possible modes of transport, which rushes, overtaking each other, brave cows completely calmly. When these sacred animals cease to give milk, they are released on the will, and they settle on the highway, feeding out that they are thrown out of cars.
The farther in the mountains, the more wide and smooth track turns into a dizzying serpentine, and sometimes – in a narrow path, on which two opposite cars do not disperse. At the beginning and at the end of these segments (and their length can be a few kilometers) there are police officers with radio. Talking between themselves, they decide which way to let transport. After a while you start to understand that Indian drivers are real aces. They perfectly understand each other, sticking in the window right hand and talking to gestures on the go. On local roads incidents practically does not happen.
The entrance to the Kula opens with a narrow gorge between two rows of rocky ridges. Gradually expanding, the corridor goes into the valley, the width of which is 2-3 kilometers, and the length until the next narrowing (followed by another valley) is about 60 kilometers. Scenery Kulu is amazingly beautiful. The rapid river Bias and foams between the boulders, the peasant fields are terraced by the terraces on green slopes, cumulus clouds are like fantastic animals, and on the mountain ranges hit the white hats never melting snow.
Favorite entertainment Hindu – climb the whole family to one of the passes, where the thick snow cover is. It is necessary to see the inhabitants of the tropics, which turn into small children: tumble in the snowdrifts, rushes snowballs, make huge elephants. On top of light shirts and multicolored sari, they wear fur coats, galoshes and ears, taken right away. True, only secured people can afford sokend.
At the entrance to the valley at the very edge of the road, there is a small temple, opposite which each passing machine stops. An unnamed finger of the right hand, the servant draws on his forehead the red circle – Tikka, so that the perfume of the valleys did not give him any obstacles. Please note that nothing is done in India just like that – everything has its meaning and its symbolism. Here they believe that the right hand can only give, and left – just take. If you specifically observe, you can make sure that the Indians never do the opposite. It is laid in genes.
As for local gods – there are about four hundred in the valley. In each village – his. Driving on the roads, constantly see how residents carry on the shoulders decorated with ribbons and flowers a construction resembling a high chair. This means that one deity is sent to visit another. Accompanies his whole procession led by trumpets and drummers. Sometimes she moves almost running, sometimes unexpectedly stops on the go, and sometimes a motley structure bends then to the left, then to the right. From people these actions do not depend – the Divine itself decides when it is necessary to hurry when – to relax, and when to shift from side to the side. Learn about these wishes Special priest, peering in the course of a special plate.
The place where the group is stopped – the cozy hotel of the Nagar mountain village, from where travels are made through the most interesting valleys of the valley every day. Nagar selected not by chance. Here you can see the Summer Palace of Indian Rajei, wander among the ruins of the castle of Pandavi, visit the oldest temples of the main gods of the Hindu Pantheon: Vishnu, Krishna, Shiva and Goddess Parvati. In addition, Jagd Tad is the Temple of World Stone, where the stove brought to the prehistoric times by the gods of the world, who decided to establish Nagar as the place of communication of the gods with people. Apparently because this place is the strongest energy point in which it is believed to be converged in invisible rays that bind three "strong" The peaks of the surrounding mountains.
In 1928, after completing his five-year expedition on the route of the Great Indian Path, Nikolai Roerich settle in Nagar and lives here the next 20 years, until death. Today, his estate is managed by a woman named Ursula. She tells guests about Russian mystics, artist and scientist, and on a special agreement can show even the second floor of estates, where tourists usually do not allow. But in the laboratory, where Rerich performed his experiments, it is impossible to penetrate. There, in silence and twilight, manuscripts and books, flasks and retorts, telescopes and cards are stored.
Closest from Nagara town, like the whole valley, is also called Kulu. On Sundays on his football field you can see a sorcerer with a Himalayan Bear. Murmoching and sentencing, sorcerer mixes powders, grated from the following objects: horsepie hoof, elephant tiper, tiger fang, bull horn and sea shell. Then he refers to a mixture into small iron boxes, compresses them in a fist and, right on the eyes of those who surved his viewers, shoves the bear right in the mouth. Consecrated by a bear amulets are designed for sale, and they are diverged instantly.
It should be reminded that, standing on the hind legs, the Himalayan Bear reaches two and a half meters of height. But in these edges there is an even larger beast: rapid, like zipper, Himalayan Bars. But if you ask the local resident who is stronger from animals – he, without thinking, will answer: "Yet".
We conduct endless disputes about, there is a snowy man or not, and here his reality is not even questioned. Those who came to the nose came across the Yeti, a little, but every child in the valley knows: the worst thing – to withstand the hard view of this person. I took my eyes – you can say goodbye to life.
If you move through the valley to the opposite side of the road, get to the village called Panga, and from there to climb along the path leading up to the mountain, you can get to the Buddhist Nigmapa Monastery, in which the followers of one of the four traditions of Buddhism live – "Red hats". The founder of the monastery, Lama Keenpo Tutien Ozer Rinpoche, fled to these edges after annexation of Tibet by the Chinese, and first lived in a cold cave nearby. Over the past forty years, he managed to build a spacious Temple-Pagoda, arrange around a lot of small houses and plant all the territory with blooming trees.
Here are the occult sciences of 120 monks, half of which are women. In the Tibetan family of the first child, be sure to monk, so you can imagine what kind of force this people possesses. The abbot of the monastery – the man is wise and in the valley endlessly dear. I often ask him the question: "What is expected by humanity?" Lama smiles and answers: "If people will perform good actions – everything will be fine".
In the Culley Valley there is a Tibetan Medical and Astrological Center, but he is in the city of Manali. The main principle of Tibetan medicine is to affect the cause of the disease – after all, one thing can be sick, and you need to be treated quite another. The opinion of the doctor is based on the results of the pulse diagnosis and extrasensory scanning. Tibetan Lekari believes that there are four elements from which the human body is: mucus, water, fire and earth. The diagnosis is formulated as follows: "You have an increase in wind in your intestines, and in the kidneys – a decrease in fire". It is not worth transferring these allegory to the language of traditional medicine – it is necessary to use drugs prepared from Himalayan plants in a prescription.
Having visited the Tibetan Center, do not miss the opportunity to go through jewelry shops Manali. Prices as they say, you will pleasantly surprise. Handmade Silver Ring with a good stone costs four to five dollars. Here you can not be afraid of fakes: they turn out to be more expensive than working with natural materials. The only stone that is sold as imitation (but no one hides that this is a fake) – a stone zone, or a nag stone. This is a black-shaped throat of black, which is formed in the throat of one of several thousand snakes. Therefore, it is imitated in the market that the real is a unique rarity. Stone zi is worth a whole state, as it has a magical force – the result of the strongest, as claimed, energy seals. But he acquires his magical properties only when a live snake is cut out of the internals. Make it can exclusively yogi and the fan of God Shiva. Sample Nagi stone can be seen in the Moscow Museum of Roerich.
In the Valley Kulu nature demonstrates completely unique manifestations. Here, for example, a manicaran, where boiling water comes to the surface, bubble bubbles and enveloping the terrain of dense steam clubs. Pilgrims come here and newlyweds come. The latter take small bags with rice, tie for a thread to enclosing crossards and lowered bags in boiling water. Then they make prayer, bypass around the temple, take pictures – and stretch for threads already welded rice. Such a tradition.
Manicaran – sacred place. Here I lived Guru Nanak, the founder of the religion of Sikhov. Unlike Jains, these bearded handsome people – people freedom-loving and militant. They are absolutely officially allowed to wear cold weapons, and they fasten to the belt curved daggers in silver sheaths. All year round, and afternoon, in every Sikh temple, the sacred book read out loud "Grand Sahib", which he wrote a guru nanak. Behind the reading, the reading is another bearded and waving a launcher, so that the sacred words are better than the world. The real SICH should not cut the hair never, but must hide them under the chalm from outsiders. In addition, Sikh cannot melt with a dagger. In the manicaran there are thermal pools with hot sulfur water. Hundreds of men and women go here to take the holy healing bath. Sikhi do this: freamed by doggles and swim in Chalma, to which daggers are tied.
Rotating on Mula to Rattan Pass 4300 meters, you can detect a sheer path, steeply leading down. If you start a hike in the morning, in the evening you can go to the village, where the Malanov tribes lives. They are about 800 people, and the government of India they do not obey, but have their own advice of elders. Nothing but a narrow path does not connect malans with the outside world. Malans believe that the touch of an outsider (no matter, white or hind) to any belonging to them brings trouble – at best, material. Rarely, who managed to visit Malanov on a visit.
True, recently their principles have fallen a bit. The fact is that the fields of cannabis grow around their villages, which was considered among Malan weed until several years ago, the international tent camp of lovers was not opened next to their village "Hose". Here, on the territory not subject to anyone, you can smoke at least to smoke – and without any trouble with the authorities. However, you won’t be full of Kurchev – I need to purchase Malan. They say that two televisions have appeared in their village, and windows glazed in two houses. In order not to emerge ambiguity, it is necessary to say unequivocally: with drug addicts "Kailas" Cause does not have.
Another interesting place of the Culley Valley is the Temple of Bidgeli Mahadev, which can be translated as "Temple of electric shiva". The cult embodiment of one of the main gods of the Hindu Pantheon is called lingam. This is a men’s symbol, if we say simply – phallus made of stone, bone or metal. During the ceremonies, the lingons are sprinkled with petals, silent him incense and fold it before him. Mountain, at the top of which is the Temple of Electric Shiva, from ancient times I was interpreted by the Hindu as one large lingons. And in fact, it stands apart from other. If it turns out to be upstairs (and the rise in a steep path from the place where you can get on the jeep, takes an hour and a half), you can see the ridges of the surrounding mountains that come out around wherever either throw a look. From ancient times, on this place from white clay, mixed with a yolk, Lepii Upper, Oval Lingama. The temple is built so that inside it and this top is located, and it is located so high, which attracts all the zippers, constantly sparkling around. With each getting of lightning in the temple lingam scattered into separate pieces. And at the same time, the brahmans that are constantly living here begin to win it again.
About the riddles of the Valley Kulu can be told infinitely: both of the invisible city, whose noise is heard when applying the ear to Earth, and about the kingdom of Indrenos, where they are allowed only with the permission of Indre-Ruzhizhtsev, and about yoga that studied the science of the inner fire "Tumo" and live in high glaciers without fire and clothes. There is another mystery. Many researchers studying as they consider unknown on the Christian sacred scripture years of Jesus Christ (this gap between his 14 and 29 years) came to the conclusion that during this period he visited India, on Tibet, in Himalayas and even visited Shambalu.