Vienna in monastic
The farther, the more I am surprised by the current manner of traveling. Did not have time to put the plane on the plane like you – open your eyes and passport! Whether it is in the XVIII century: during a long journey in the stroller and with the people you have time to talk, and the impending city will think about.
After all, in Vienna, everyone has to choose between. Do you think Schocolate, chocolate cake and coffee? No, between the musical world and picturesque! That music lovers flock on the shores of the Danube from all over the world, it is known to everyone, but more recently Vienna has become a museum diva. That is, local meetings have always been considered exemplary (the best collections of Bruegel than in the artistic museum, there is probably anywhere in the world). But this year they were resolutely updated.
Kunsthalla Vienna, for example, nodded in some barracks for a long time. Cute, how to say, barracks, and even trendy, but somehow no one looked at the status of Coonsthalle (now there is a wonderful exhibition about television and his strange role in our life). Assembly of modern art Ludwig for some time prigel Palace Liechtenstein – it turned out aesthetically conflict. But the collection of Leopold was completely without a roof, from homelessness only knew that the world was toured. Although Leopold is a striking selection of angular and nervous sewer and in general, the Vienna expressionism of the beginning of the century.
And now all these wealth collected in the same yard former imperial stables. Which are now called "Museum quarter". There, only ten minutes can go along the baroque facade: one metro station at the beginning of the facade, the other can be seen at the end. And how do you get inside. Three buildings of modern forms (even too modern, find some) and a couple of dozens of cultural institutions – from the Tobacco Museum and the Architectural Center to the Children’s Theater and Numerous Cafe (in Vienna, the cafe has always been part of the culture, but they have never merged so ecastatic). Two days with difficulty enough for inspection. And in the evenings you can relax in the folkstate, next door to the museum quarter. True, the best performance today "Meerling" Not cheerful: he tells about the son of Franz Joseph, the poor prince-suicide Rudolph, and not become the emperor. Farc Scenography pleases the eye of those who are not in freaks with German.
Viennese theaters are always full of public. By the way, even in the Vienna stateshoker, when there are no tickets at the box office, you can always buy something from hand, and sometimes with a discount. At a thin end there are inlet places. Among the last prime minister – rare on world scenes "Somnambula" Bellini (coming views – 4, 8, 13 and 16), and from the current repertoire (ah, what a wonderful combination – "Current repertoire"! Why, it is interesting, tears?) Especially good a little archaic, but because no less powerful "Parsifal". And the evening of the same name will probably remember not even Melomanu: before fun "Gianni Skikki" Puccini goes metaphysical "Jacob staircase" Shenberg.
Other bird from the Austrian scene and to Moscow. Everyone has a parade "Chap", arranged under the curtain of the theater Olympiad. One of them arrived just from Vienna, where there is actually a lot of worthy Chekhov. In the same burgteater where "Gull" Luca Bondi goes, for example, a pretty "Uncle Ivan" in the formulation of Andrea Bret. Actually, this is the performance of the famous Berlin theater "Shaubün", Transferring to Vienna. On endless, like Russian land, the scene unfolds quite a universal story, the main character of which is not uncle Vanya, but Dr. Asters (memorable work of Wolfgang Michael), only he is one and full of here for the future. Dates of the nearest performances can be found on the Internet: www.burgtheater.AT.
What is the most important thing in a big city? Proper place. This is somewhere in Chartres, where neither do it, all is well. And in the European capitals, it is important from the very beginning to determine the place right. Because then the place will begin to determine you. With Vienna, I was lucky this time. I lived in the Schottenstift monastery. I walked past him before (good it is located on the square of the three museums on Freyung), but everything was no time to go inside. And this time there was time and the cathedral to enjoy, and go down in a crypt, and in the monastery museum of the collection of prelates to consider: other biddermayer furniture turns out to be steeper avant-garde! And 19 boards of the gothic altar, recently, by the way, renovated and somehow are completely unusually illuminated (emphasizing all parts of what is happening, developed specifically), famous in the world. As a background for the history of Mary, an unknown artist painted not abstract landscapes, but the types of Vienna itself – they are considered the oldest images of the city, and many of his districts are recognizable so far. The monastery was founded in 1155, but "Scottish" He was named rather by mistake: the first three hundred years managed Irish monks here, and then he passed under the control of the Benedictians. They continue to live today in a huge architectural complex engaged in a whole quarter. Once there were hospital, workshops and even a dairy farm. In accordance with the spirit of time, the monks and today not only traded with liquors and fruits grown in monastic gardens (the local shop is always full, I did not even give to the types of crop with Frant Stefan), but also allowed guests. The monastery hotel is considered one of the best in Vienna, calm and for the center is not at all expensive. And although Schottenthtyft has repeatedly rebuilt (the most voluminous works are considered to be a baroque alteration of the Church by the Italians in the XVII century and the construction of residential buildings at the beginning of the XIX), the Spirit of the past chalks in it is still. And in the monastery school, which is already 250 years old (quite secular and in terms of languages considered one of the best in Vienna), I almost sat down at the desk, followed by Johann Strauss.
I was allowed to live in guest cells (in fact, ordinary rooms, bright and without tv) and even showed a repaired library, where the vintage cabinets unexpectedly easily moved, opening the hidden rooms: it is clear why experts on the Middle Ages adore the Schottenthti archives. There so much lies! In the evenings, returning from the theater, I entered the inconspicuous door in the yard, walked a dark-pitched corridor to the elevator and turned out to be on my floor, where he lived in full solitude. Huge baroque vaults, who drove away, were reminded of times when the world was still ruled by ideas, and the construction was not massive. I would like to live in the world in the world about the golden age, which already happened in the past, but still has a cherished property: it crystallizes everything good, whose beauty, whose taste, like old guilt, ripen over the years. Therefore, I like the baroque monasteries, the majestic altars in their churches and the indispensable collection of paintings and silver. On the outskirts of Vienna, on the hill, it is, for example, Klosternoyburg, another huge complex, full of vintage canvases (the museum with the famous Verdun altar belongs to the number of the most important in the country, and the exhibition dedicated to the AR Deco in the church art of the twentieth century ). The first on the hill was settled by the Romans, then the fortress came with the monastery, where they were fond of cartography and made globes – they say, almost the first in the world. Later in Klostenniburgor there was a residence of Babenbergs and Karl VI, who did not regret the time and effort on arrangement. Karl even dreamed of Vienna Madrid Escorial, but the construction was interrupted by his sudden death. And all the same, the competition with Spanish luxury is guessed in the majestic interiors opening in a huge building, as if exposed layers of deposits in a rock. Sometimes the transition from style to style, from the era to the epoch is limited only by the threshold of the room, and all the esfilad of the second floor, full of tapestries and furniture, ends under the heavens of the marble hall, one of the few finished after the death of Karl. Standing at the opened window of the corner room, I tried to distinguish through the thick crowns of the river splash: Danube was somewhere nearby. But only the rustling of cars on the highway, hidden trees, crossing the train, and the shelter of the newspaper in the hands of the rear-year-old caretaker.